Karakol travel guide and other handy tips

The instant I arrived in Karakol, I fell in love with it. The drive from Bishkek was long, (seven hours including many stops) but the scenery was so mind boggling that I paid no attention to the time.

That is the good thing about travel – there is a surprise at every bend.

But first, a little background on Karakol, just to put things in perspective.

Karakol stands at cultural crossroads

I’ll begin with a little bit of history – Karakol is unlike any other part of Kyrgyzstan. Its diversity shines through in its people, food and local attractions giving off a wonderfully authentic feel.

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Founded in the 1870s, Karakol’s former name Przhevalsk feels like a mouthful – and hard to pronounce – so personally I think it is fortunate that the name was changed to Karakol upon the city’s declaration of independence from Russia. The town, on both the Russian and Chinese borders, has a population of little over 140,000 and is made up of an eclectic mix of ethnicities: Kyrgyz, Russians, Kazakhs, Tatars, Uyghurs and Huis.

For various reasons, Karakol is considered the main tourist destination of the country. I was yet to figure out why, of course (but which I found to be true eventually). Much of that fame can be attributed to Karakol, I say – especially the landscape near the town. Today, there are several places to stay in Karakol, making it a huge draw for short and long-term tourists. Truth be told, whilst here, most visitors opt to stay on the meadows, mountains, or yurts in the valley, which does not make Karakol a lively place, but that said, tourism does contributes to the town’s economy in a very mysterious ways.

Karakol bridges China to the east and the rest of Central Asia to the west which allows for a certain ethnic diversity in Karakol’s food and culture. That and the Russian influence makes the town diverse.

Other treks include Altyn Arashan to Jeti Oguz and Turgen Valley. There are some newly developed trails setting off from the Jyrgalan village.

And for the most serious mountain climbers, there are several peaks nearby that top out well above 5,000 meters.

2. Feel rejuvenated in a Russian bath and sauna

Well, the very least you can do to yourself in way of pampering (post trek) is a good soak in a Russian bath. This is your chance to experience a local culture and an inexpensive way to relax.  Whilst your muscles are healing, enjoy a swig or two of beer in the sauna for that added charm.

3. Explore the “nailless” Dungan Mosque

The architecture is truly and very visibly astounding. Decorated with fruit imagery, the mosque was built using a fascinating system of joinery, using no nails in the process. The structure, built entirely of wood and without a single nail by Chinese Muslims who fled to the city after the 1904 Qin rule rebellion. It looks a little out of place in Karakol, but it is referred to as a masterpiece of Dungan architecture, with its finely detailed carved frieze. Throughout, there is pre-Islamic Buddhist imagery, combined with the Chinese mythology. It is certainly an interesting structure.

4. Ride to a natural hot spring

Two options here. Head to Ak-Suu Hot Spring (a bit closer to town) or up into Altyn Arashan. I went on a horse-riding trek to the latter. The sulfurous odor of a natural hot spring offers a hint: the mineral-laden waters feel great and are good for what ails your skin, bones and muscles.

I’ll say this with some joy and pride – no matter how pretty the town of Karakol was or the roads leading to it, the highlight of my journey was the horse trek to Altyn Arashan (meaning Golden Spa), an alpine valley and mountain resort. It was not easy on a horseback either (two recent  avalanches had rendered the road impassable for 4×4 and 6×6 and hiking in the cold was least romantic option, so I decided to ride a horse) but if you have spare time, it is one of the best things to do while in Karakol.

I am ready to make this journey again – only for the hot springs. The best time to trek to this place in May-August, when you can do the longer, high altitude trek to the frozen lake of Ala Kul. Hopefully next time!

5. Smell the spice and immerse in culture at the Big Bazaar

The Karakol Big Bazaar has everything – literally everything. From warm clothes (in case you’ve made an impulsive decision to go trekking), to dried fruits and nuts and heaps of spices from all over.  I was surprised to see the mounds of chili peppers – no less than a dozen different types. This is your best chance to meet people with Kyrgyz, Russian, Dungan, Uighur, Uzbek, and Kalmak backgrounds selling their wares and specialties.

6. Amaze yourself at the Przhevalsky Museum

Russian explorer Nikolay Przhevalsky set up shop in Karakol in the late 19th century. However there are rumours surrind his presence in the region – some believe that he was “installed” in Karakol by Russian Tsar to find a short-cut secret route from Karakol to Tibet. A visit here helps connects all the dots if you’ve been travelling in other parts of Central Asia.

Note: The museum is just outside of town in a quiet park overlooking Lake Issyk-Kul. You can easily get a shared taxi from town to bring you here.

7. Buy a horse or two at the Karakol animal market

On Sunday, never mind the weather, Karakol comes alive with the sound of trade – animal trade to be precise. The animal market held on the outskirts of town is the place you need to check out – if you are truly looking for a local activity to write home about. Here you can buy horses, sheep, cattle, and even donkey… (even if you are only visiting, it is hard to resist a good deal, eh).

8. Understanding the role of the  Russian Orthodox Cathedral

Of the two most popular religious sights in the town (which I explored as soon as I arrived) are the Russian Orthodox Holy Trinity Cathedral and the Dungan Mosque (Hui). Yes, they are beautiful and the unique thing about both was that they were totally made of wood.

The Russian Holy Trinity Church was built at the end of the 19th century. Impressive and the only church of its kind I’ve ever had the chance to see. Interestingly, it was used as an officer’s club and a dance hall during Soviet times, though it is now restored and in use for its original purpose once again. It is open to everyone but one is required to cover their heads inside – and of course, no photography!

Note: The Russian Orthodox Cathedral is one of the main stops along the free Karakol walking tour by Destination Karakol.

9. Take pictures of Russian Gingerbread homes

As you walk around Karakol, you will come across all the gingerbread-style windows, doors and awnings. These gorgeous blue and white homes  are a reminder of what Karakol was like in the 19th century boom during the Russian Empire. Today, they’re very much a unique visual fixture of the Karakol town landscape that remind us of its history.

10. Find your treasure in the flea market

The Karakol flea market is held on weekends, where you will find everything from pots and plants to motor and hammer. As you stroll around, peering into the “treasure junk” grab a local snack Piroshki or a fruit to make your experience memorable.

11. Visit the Jeti Oguz

If trekking isn’t your thing or you wish to cover a bit more ground, get on a taxi and head to Jeti Oguz – The Seven Bulls about 15 km away.

The lush valley of red sandstone rock formations is breath-taking. Snaking its way through their crevices is a beautiful flowing river, along the banks of which were several traditional yurt homes that had been set up for tourists. Climb up to the ideal vantage point to get some photos of the exquisite scenery.

Though the area is beautiful, the legend behind the formation of the Seven Bulls is perhaps not the most romantic. The story goes that a Kyrgyz man stole another man’s wife so the wronged man asked a wise man how best he should reap revenge. The wise man eventually advised him to kill his wife along with seven bulls. The blood that flowed from their hearts and those of the bulls washed everything away and killed everyone. The blood of the bulls washed them through the valley to the place where the rock formations are today. Here they lay down to rest and turned into red rocks.

12. How about some skiing?

It is hard to associate Karakol with skiing (despite the soaring Tien Shan mountains in its backyard) but it is a fact – Karakol is among the best ski destinations in Central Asia. A few kilometers outside the town, is a resort-style service that won’t be available elsewhere. The Karakol Ski Resort  (at 3040 m is among the highest in central asia) is more isolated than the other options found in Kyrgyzstan but will amaze powder hungry skiing aficionados at its vertigo inducing altitudes. This mountain was used as a training ground for Olympic athletes during Russian times.

This ski-resort I was told, is a popular ski destination for Kyrgyz, Kazak and Russian people.

Karakol Travel Guide: Things to Eat

The food in Karakol has a lot to do with its history. This town is a melting pot for cultures – Kyrgyz, Dungan, Tatar, Uyghur and Russian – which means you get quite a bit of variety when it comes to the food. From refreshing soups to bowls of spicy noodles, and from sweet treats to fermented mare’s milk, Karakol has plenty of experiences to keep your taste buds interested.

1. Sample a Dungan meal

Dungans make up a large number of the local population and it is easy to find Dungan cuisine in Karakol – but it is best enjoyed at a Dungan home. The meal features subtly flavoured meat and vegetables. Local tour operators organise food tours that include a meal in a Dungan home.

2. Savour  Ashlan-Fu in Karakol

I have to say this – this was by far my top favourite food in Karakol. I gained an appreciation for cold noodle soup after eating bowls after bowls of this cold noodle soup, specific to Karakol Dungans. There is an entire street dedicated for this – at Bogu Bazaar, but Saida’s is the most popular of all. A typical bowl of this noodle contains starch noodle, wheat, egg noodles pepper, garlic, vinegar, carrots tomato, onion, chili and meat. Don’t forget to grab a couple of Piroshki (fried potato bread) to go with this spicy bowl of soup.

3. Enjoy a cup of good coffee

Karakol Coffee House, a lovely old spot with a charming décor, was my first stop for my caffeine fix. What I learnt here was surprising – coffee shops only made an appearance in the city about 12 years ago. Today there are several cafes here – which was the best piece of news I’d heard since arrival.

Few others include Fat Cat Karakol and the popular chain, Sierra Coffee. 

4. Know your Lagman

You can never tire of lagman noodles (wondering sometimes how I could have got through central Asia without this). This type of oodles can be served dry, in a soup or fried. Lagman means stretch noodles and these thick, handmade noodles is believed to bring good luck to those who eat it. Topped with tomato, meat, onions and cilantro, these are extremely delicious and filling.

5. Get bold with a glass of Kymyz

It might take you a couple of tries but in the end you’ll be thankful for trying. Kymyz, a traditional drink made with milk from a horse (mare). The mare’s milk is fermented, making it slightly alcoholic and drinking it somewhat a ritual. More than that, it is an acquired taste – but worth a try. Serving a bowl of kymyz to guests continues to be an important part of nomadic hospitality.

Accommodation in Karakol

I stayed at stayed at Duet hostel the entire time I was in Karakol. It is a nice mid-range hostel with a super friendly owner. Fortunately for me, it was low season and I had the entire place pretty much to myself.  Renovations and additions were being made (when you come again, you will stay in a yurt, he told me). I highly recommended.

For budget travelers there’s a good selection of inexpensive hostels in town. For the ones that want to splurge a little, you are in luck.

Getting to Karakol

Take a marshrutka (minivan) or shared taxi from Bishkek’s main bus station. The journey takes about 5-6 hours. Be prepared for a number of stops as you get closer to your destination. The marshrutka makes refreshment stops frequently.