Of all the scenic drives I have been on in the US is the Blue Ridge Parkway, an adventure that included driving end to end of the 470 miles (plus the 1015.5 miles of Skyline Drive) of almost heaven-like landscape that began at the southern-most point end Cherokee, North Carolina to the northern-most end of Skyline Drive in Afton, Virginia.
Waterfalls, hiking trails and an old mill make this drive enjoyable.
This drive makes it every list of must do things in the US and is quite charming in its own John Denver ways. There was one challenge though – the weather and the fact that very often the phone network blinked off, leaving us to consult the map (yeah, the paper kind) and peering through the windshield to look at the nature of the sky, something that proved hard because things changed rapidly on the Blue Ridge. Yo-yoing along the crest of the mountain however, there was one thing I was thankful for.
It wasn’t cold.
About Blue Ridge Parkway
The entire stretch of Blue Ridge Parkway and Skyline Drive, that run one after the other is asphalted, which means, you can quite easily, ride, bike or drive a regular car through the heart of the southern Appalachia. For perspective, The Blue Ridge province consists of two national parks – The Great Smoky Mountains national park (where we began) and Shenandoah National Park (the end point of our drive) and includes eight national forests like Cherokee, Pisgah, George Washington, Jefferson etc. The only constant is the blue colour of the mountains that stays till the end.
Great Smoky Mountains is the most visited National Park in the United States, with over 12 million visitors per year and notwithstanding the season, you feel as though you are driving in the clouds. Hence the name.
The parkway is broken up into six sections, based on the geological features it passes through.
Day 1 – Cherokee to Asheville
Cherokee (Milepost 469, North Carolina) is the closest town to the south end of the Blue Ridge Parkway. We stayed the night before the drive in this small town, whose major attraction include a casino and a handful of shops selling Indian crafts and souvenirs.
We started our day with a homestyle American breakfast at Mabel’s Kitchen and weaved and wound up our way up the Blue Ridge Mountains, stopping enroute to view the world beyond from the numerous ‘overlooks” along the way. There is no shortage of stunning scenery and many opportunities for adventure. The Blue Ridge range is said to be second oldest mountain range created a billion years ago.
On day one, we reached the highest point of the Blue Ridge Parkway at an elevation of 6,053 feet (1,845 m). The views are, when the mist clears, jaw dropping.
The Blue Ridge Parkway cuts right through Asheville (Milepost 382) a perfect place to stop for a night or two. Asheville is one of the most underrated cities in the US. Surrounded by beautiful mountains and several state parks, it has a large craft brewery scene, and is home to many other attractions including the Biltmore Mansion. We of course, drove down to Asheville for a quick look around and double-backed to the Blue Ridge to the Pisgah Inn, a quiet, natural place along the driveway. Natural breeze and mountain views provided the perfect place to unwind. This inn is in business since 1919. Either you come for the food and stay for the views – or come for the views and stay for the food (we did both) and loved every minute of it.
Day 2: Asheville to Roanoke
A day filled with light and mist, but driving through – for most part, a canopy trail, we arrived at Roanoke (Milepost 121). Thomas Jefferson was a frequent visitor to this region and described his impression thus – “It is impossible for the emotions arising from the sublime to be felt beyond what they are here.”
If you want a break from the trees and forests, head to the newer attractions in downtown Roanoke – the Taubman Museum of Art, housed in a stunning modern design by notable architect Randall Stout. Roanoke is a city known for the Roanoke Star, also known as the Mill Mountain Star, a neon landmark overlooking the city from the summit of Mill Mountain.
***Please note that a major section of the park was being renovated, so in several places we were forced to exit to the highway and trace back to the Blue Ridge.
Day 3: Roanoke to Afton
Fortunately, we had a clear day – the light rains subsided and sun shone through the canopy drive for the last 1015.5 miles through Shenandoah National Park all the way until Afton (Milepost 0), a very pretty town.
If you want to linger on in the Shenandoah National Park, there is much to do, besides some fantastic overlooks like the Range View Overlook or the Buck Valley (pretty names, right?). You can also trail off towards the Dark Hollow falls through a relatively easy hike to reach one of the highest waterfalls. The highlight was (after experiencing some overlook-fatigue) was finding Starbucks coffee at Big Meadows Lodge.
***If you are driving in reverse (from North to South), remember there are four entrances to the Shenandoah National Park.
A Mill, A Park and rocky outcrops
Of the most photographed sites on the Blue Ridge Parkway is Mabury Mill @Milepost 176 and for good reason. The early 1900s wooden gristmill sits beside a stream as though suspended in time. A century after its construction the waterwheel continues to spin and grind flour.
In October, the trees surrounding the mill turn a rusty orange and make for a delightful photo op – like we saw in the photos. But thankfully we weren’t disappointed by the wet and windy day in the month of July. Another attraction is Matthew’s Cabin (not a part of the original Mabry buildings), a relocated, historic cabin which sits perfectly with the historic nature of the area.
Doughton Park @ Milepost 241.1 is a somewhat out-of-the-way park and one of the best places on the Blue Ridge Parkway. Here, if you wait patiently, there is every chance of running into a raccoon, white-tailed deer, red and grey foxes or bobcats. If you intend to stay the night or camp, this is the place for you. This 7,000-acre park, the largest recreation area on the Blue Ridge Parkway, offers a campground, hiking trails, picnic areas. Appalachian history comes to life amidst the meadows and mountainsides of Doughton Park. There are plenty of gorgeous waterfalls along the Ridge like the Cascade Falls @Milepost 271.9. While we weren’t very keen on chasing waterfalls in the rain, we did walk the one mile to find this thunderous waterfall tucked inside the park. The twenty-foot cascade appeared in all shades of colours and the path leading to the waterfalls was lined with some interesting tree species. Another pretty waterfall we explored was the Crabtree Falls @Milepost 339
A note about the Overlooks
Over two hundred times along the length of the Blue Ridge Parkway, drivers will pass pull-offs that look onto wide, breath-taking vistas, luring them to stop and take in the views. These pull-offs or overlooks are named. Many have picnic tables, trails, or other amenities or opportunities, but what makes the Blue Ridge Parkway’s overlooks consistently irresistible are the long, wide, and open views across the Blue Ridge Mountain ranges.
The 20- Minute overlook was my favourite, mainly because of the reason for it being there. Rock face below the overlook serves the people of White Rock as a way of measuring time. During the months of June and July the sun drops behind the mountains 20 minutes after sunlight hits the rock, enabling locals to tell time by the sun.
Bring out the maps and pens
I am going to sound old fashioned, but here is a word of advice -before you start, grab a map and mark your stops and attractions on it. There is a good chance that the GPS will not show the mile markers leading to the attractions. Additionally, if you search for directions, the Parkway will not show up as a recommended route. Considering that you might not meet another traveller for miles, in all likelihood you might miss the attraction you are after or even a hotel, an inn or the exit to the freeway.
A packed lunch and plenty of snacks helped us considerably – with so many picnic areas and Overlooks along the way, the drive was even more attractive thanks to the comestibles. Post Covid, several cafes and restaurants have closed and the few that are open (Pisgah and Doughton Park) food can be very expensive. But it was worth every penny to dig into a venison burger and fries as the skies opened.
