The decorated mosque of Tetovo | Macedonia

Macedonia is filled with little known treasures and that is not a bad thing after all. Because of so many hidden gems, it is such a delight to stumble upon such important evidences of a vibrant historical past. During my visit to this beautiful country, I had the double joy of finding delightfully old and extremely holy churches and cathedrals – and a mosque that is nothing short of breath-taking.

I present to you Sarena Dzamija!

History of Sarena Dzamija

Sarena Dzamija or the Decorated Mosque (Painted Mosque or Coloured Mosque) of Tetovo, Macedonia is different from anything else I had seen or known about mosques. It is located on Pena River and was originally built in 1438. It differs from other mosques in three ways –

1. It’s building was commissioned by two sisters from Tetovo
2. Unlike the other mosques, there is no exterior dome
3. It has bright floral paintings instead of the traditional Ottoman ceramic tile decorations.

Most mosques at the time were commissioned by Sultans or Pashas – but this one was commissioned by two sisters.

When I arrived in Tetovo, it was overcast and during the brief visit I experienced sudden rain showers as well. That perhaps added to the mystic charm of Tetovo, a town fifty kilometers from Skopje where this beautiful mosque is located.

The architecture

The mosque is rather small, heavily carpeted and brightly painted even in the inside. Bright chandeliers and pretty window-grooves add to that subtle charm of the mosque. More than a place of worship, it feels as though you have walked into a private, holy sanctuary. The mosque was originally built in 1438 and later rebuilt in 1833 by Abdurrahman Pasha (from Albania) after a fire destroyed it.

It is said that more than 30,000 eggs went into the making of the glaze and paint used to prepare the decorations!

You’ll be forgiven for thinking of it as something straight out of an Arabian Tale! It easily one of the most beautiful mosques I have ever seen.

According to inscriptions (I couldn’t read them of course, I had been told), the Pasha’s two daughters, Hoorshide and Mensoureh, had some say in its re-design. There’s conflicting information about its history but one thing is out there for all to see – the decorations are feminine. The frescoes are believed to been installed by a craftsmen from Debar, near Ohrid.

In the intervening years, Tetovo Mosque has undergone various renovations. It’s incredibly well preserved for a building of its age – the paintings are probably just as vibrant as they day they were created.

The body of the two sisters who commissioned the construction of this mosque lies in a nearby turbe (tomb in Turkish).

By the way, Tetovo is also renowned for its Tavce Gravce, Macedonia’s national dish! On a side note, I couldn’t get enough of this fabulous dish!

Why visit Tetovo

The more I travel, the more I have come to realise that in the small towns lie the real gems – like with Tetovo. This small town is rather green and leafy, and yet vibrant and hip. The riverside is lined with delightful coffee shops, there is always a sale on and the women of Tetovo are considered to be the most beautiful in all of Macedonia. The town is easily explored on foot (just remember to wear good shoes).

Here is one other thing I’d like to point out – the culture. This is what struck me first. A week after arriving in Macedonia and experiencing its largely Christian culture, Tetovo was most definitely a culture shock- the reason for this being that the population of Tetovo is mostly ethnic Albanian. I could see the difference in the shop signs that were no longer in the Cyrillic alphabet used in Macedonia, but were Albanian words in the Latin alphabet. The way people dressed or the way they looked at visitors was very different too!

What you need to know about travel to Tetovo

• From Skopje, the capital of Macedonia, there are regular buses to this city (third largest in Macedonia). It takes about 50 minutes.
• If you are driving yourself, remember there are two toll booths on the road and you will be required to pay 20 Denars each time.
• Tetovo (third biggest city in northern Macedonia) is well connected to other parts of Macedonia.

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