Negotiating Mt Popa through mountains of monkey poo

It takes more than courage to conquer Mt Popa.

I stared. Then I sighed.

This, I said to myself, is not what I signed up for. Not in this sweltering heat. And most certainly NOT climbing the 777 to the top. Let me correct that. 777 steps to the top accompanied by mean little macaques ready to snatch my water bottle and cap. A spiritual quest MUST be far less challenging in my opinion. This was not my idea of soul- searching.

But it had to be done. And on bare foot. Myanmar has a strict no-shoes policy at all holy temples, so I was forced to remove my footwear and stash it in the shelf supervised by an aging Burmese. Despite these setbacks, I was determined to see this through.

I had barely made it over twenty ill-designed steps when the rank stink of monkey-pee assaulted my nose. It was worse than stepping around (or into) poo that kept appearing faster than it was being cleaned up by hapless Burmese men and women with long handled brooms. The stench made going harder, adding unnecessary strain to the lungs. The stench was toxic. It seemed though, we-the-tourists were the only ones affected by this – around us, locals dressed in their spiritual best (read silken lyongi), nimbly skipped up the steps ahead of us, smiling as they went along, some pausing just long enough to snap a picture of city-slickers masquerading as daring tourists. Not a bead of sweat was to be seen on their foreheads. Or anywhere.

I can tell you by this time I had worked up a sweat. 777 steps meant a sweat bath. But through the tunnel of people and monkeys, I plodded on. I may have paused for breath every fifty steps and with every altitude gain the scenery unfolding around me was spectacular. I wish the going had been smoother and less harrowing.

A little about Mt Popa It is an extinct volcano near Bagan (who would even guess that right), that stands 1518m high. It is a holy mountain or a pilgrimage site with many nat temples and relic sites. Nats?  Yes, nats are spirits worshipped in Buddhism and are believed to have human forms and needs. There are 37 nats on Mt Popa and come Full Moon in December, the mountain comes alive with worshippers, who over overcome by nats are believed to go into trances.

 

After what seemed like the end of hope, I made it to the top and before I could pat my back for this achievement, a young goddess pushed a tray of fermented tea leaves under my nose.  I could have willingly died for water, but fermented tea leaves, which she claimed was blessed, was the only nourishment in sight. Taung Kalat monastery was an anticlimax in every sense.

The tall, golden pagodas glimmering on the mountain top that you see in pictures or from across the road on your way here, are quite dirty. Spirituality aside, everyone seemed absorbed in taking pictures (read selfies) while the Buddhas smiled down at them serenely.

I had been told that one could see Irrawaddy River at Bagan, and the Yoma Mountains on a clear day. As luck would have it, all I could see was the top of golden pagodas dotting the plains, and farmlands cradling some forested land.

Worshippers offered bananas and coconuts and sat folded legs in prayer. I wonder how they managed to sneak bananas past the pesky and persistent monkeys!

The 360 views were breathtaking. And up here on the mountain, there was some energy – the good kind of energy that one is glad to absorb after a back-breaking climb – at least enough to last the poo-laden steps back to base.

USEFUL INFO

• Unless you are driving, it is best to take an organised trip. You get picked up and dropped back to your hotel/hostel in Bagan. The drive takes about an hour – more if you stop to watch palm-jaggery making process (a mandatory stop) and a brief stop at the fresh fruit market.
• Approximate time to climb up and back: Two hours
• Carry plenty of water and preferably go protected with sunscreen
• Do not carry snacks – unless you carefully hide it in your bag. The monkeys are known to snatch everything from snacks, water bottle, sunglasses, caps, scarves…