Mount Lavinia Hotel in Colombo, Sri Lanka is one of those places where I stayed, that made me think.
And wonder.
Why wonder you may ask. Well, it was, to begin with a magnificent hotel standing on cliff overlooking the Indian Ocean but it had a vibe which gave me the shivers – in a very exciting sort of way, as though I was uncovering some dark secret. In indescribable ways, it also led me down a memory lane, the type of memory that was never real to begin with, but the years add dimension to those dreams and somehow make you feel as though you have lived those moments. Like déjà vu.
It triggered my imagination in a very twisted way and the result of that stay was a short story (an unsolved murder mystery). It had that kind of atmosphere.
See what I mean?
(That story will be up shortly, I promise).
Imaginations galore
As a writer, the place had everything going for me. The sounds of waves crashing on the rocks beneath my balcony, a train running through the property, a train station on the sea, moldy narrow alleys, unused rooms, a spa with dark rooms and quiet therapists, a tunnel, a piano… all essential to a good murder mystery. I am a travel writer and not a writer of thrillers, but right away I gave in to the temptation of attempting to write one – and with successful results.
Mount Lavinia Hotel hotel does thrive on old secrets and mysteries and to a certain extent, gossip. One can never fully understand why this hotel is so famous, but it is and that is the beauty and charm and the main reason for its fame. I can’t help but feel that you if take away the legends and the associated stories, it will turn into a ‘regular heritage hotel on the beach.’
But that is not the case, now, is it?
Let me add here that this post is NOT a hotel review in any way! I don’t often feel inclined to write about a hotel this way and the only reason I am writing this to give voice to my impressions and hey, also why not!
Intriguing history
Mount Lavinia Hotel has a 200-years-old history – which is saying a lot, isn’t it? to have survived two centuries does say a lot of its persistence to thrive. Of course, years have seen new additions, renovations and upgrades to suit the current times, but those efforts can be seen in its spectacular surroundings, exquisite interiors and delicious cuisine. It is like all of Sri Lanka in a nutshell, a very large nut to be sure. A coconut.
Yes, I was taken in by everything. Everything. Mainly because I’d heard of its mysterious beginnings and that to me was the force that was greater than any shortfall in the present. I didn’t mind it so much that the lifts were slow, the stairs dimly lit or a walk to the spa involved going down narrow and dark halls and pathways – all that added to the aura of Mount Lavinia.
Mount Lavinia Hotel, with its stunning architecture and regal presence, is a symbol of British colonial power. But more than its historic legacy is the love story that makes it charming. It was built in 1806 as the summer abode of Sir Thomas Maitland, second English Governor. It was his love story with dancer Lovina Aponsuwa, that added to the romantic allure of this heritage hotel. (You can visit a section of this tunnel from the left to the reception. The rest was sealed)
Love Story
As each governor left their mark on the estate, it evolved into a beacon of luxury and elegance. Throughout its existence, Mount Lavinia has witnessed significant milestones, including being repurposed as an asylum and its eventual resurrection as a premier colonial style hotel. The echoes of World War II, captured during its tenure as a British Army supply base, further enrich its narrative.
Sir Thomas Maitland, fondly called “King Tom,” set eyes on a beautiful mestizo dancer, Lovina Aponsuwa, the half Portuguese and half Sinhalese dancer. He fell in love with Lovina, for nowhere had he seen such beauty and such grace. Lovina became a regular performer at the Governor’s house. Flattered by the attentions of this high-ranking official, Lovina, the lowly dancer was further elated when, as a token of his growing affection, she learned that he was to name his grand country mansion Mount Lavinia, after her.
Before long, King Tom and Lovina were engaged in a clandestine romance, their deep passion for one another flourishing in secret, away from the disapproving eyes of the English society in Colombo, and the moral imperatives of such a closed community.
Lovina’s life could not have been more different from that of her lover. She was from a low caste community and lived in humble dwellings a short distance from the Governor’s grand mansion.
An underground tunnel was created for the Governor and his beloved to keep their trysts secret. The mouth of this tunnel was a disused well near Lovina’s dwelling place, and the underground passage led to the cellars of the Governor’s House. Their romance continued for six years.
The duties of Governorship soon took their toll on King Tom and poor health forced him to leave the island of Ceylon and his adored Lovina. Although the departure of King Tom was to naturally seal the end of their love affair, Lovina’s name is remembered as providing the inspiration in naming the Governor’s house.
To this day, the secret tunnel remains, keeping alive the memory and spirit of the beautiful mestizo dancer, elevated in the popular imagination to ‘Lady Lavinia’.
Holding the same allure, it has held over the last 200 years, the legacy of Mount Lavinia continues to be a source of mystery and fascination.
I stayed here for well over a week, mainly because I’d had a fall whilst holidaying in Pasikudah in the country’s east coast which sort of left me with a very painful shoulder (check this IG post on the Big Fall)
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When I was there the hotel was rather quiet and sometimes I was the only one on the beach (the southern side huddling the train station).
I have to say it was wonderful to be at peace and relax although occasionally when the tide was high, I hated the constant crashing of sea over the rocks and the ensuing noise. The distant view of Colombo at nighttime (and day) from the Terrace was spectacular.
The location
There is no faulting the location of this hotel. It is easily accessible by any mode of transport – but I’d say coming here by train is the most romantic.
Or maybe its just me – I love trains and trains station with the same passion I love old post offices.
The nostalgia quotient
If I have ever felt that I was back in time, it was here. I mean, come on – how often do you walk into a hotel lobby that big? Or seen flowers piled that high? Ever have a doorman open the door for you or a uniformed bell-boy to take up your luggage? Has a gatekeeper welcomed you into the premises? Well, not me.
Mount Lavinia Hotel does have a high European-level standards alright.
Well, whatever be the reason for me to feel that way, know that the hotel was a popular choice for some historical greats – like Vivian Leigh, Kirk Douglas, Gregory Peck, Yuri Gagarin, King Leopold of Belgium and Somerset Maugham.
A walk around the hotel, especially on the sea-side will come as a surprise – you may find peeling paint and a general feeling of untidiness – but that is just the salty air that causes walls to corrode. There are several narrow stairs squeezed in between buildings (pic above), an odd, creaking door opening into nothing…and that was the highlight for me and even today continues to serve as memory hinges.
I enjoyed the dinner time and always chose the Sri Lankan delicacies. Most of the Sri Lankan dishes share similarities with Indian food, nevertheless I found it utterly fascinating. From hoppers to pol roti to soups and sambols and chicken curry cooked with coconut milk, I thought everything was just right for the occasion.
Strangely, while the hotel itself felt empty at times, the restaurants miraculously filled up at every mealtime. One of those things I cannot explain.
