I have shared a love-hate relationship with horses since 2004 when I was thrown off one. Ever since, I have tried to keep a safe distance from the saddle, indulging occasionally in cuddling and cooing –but that is all. That changed when I traveled to Hungary. By a sheer stroke of luck (that luck repeated twice in a span of two weeks), I had the chance to visit the Lazar Equestrian Park about thirty five kilometers from Budapest near the Baroque town of Godollo.
Side note: Godollo is renowned for its association with Queen Elizabeth, wife of Franz Josef Emperor of the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy. The restored Baroque Palace originally Grassaldovich Mansion was the favourite residence of the Queen affectionately known as “Sissy”.
Back to the horses of Lazars.
The moderately long drive took me past stunning landscapes into the heart of Domony. Every time I passed stretches of rolling grassland flanked by green hills I imagined myself to be riding a horse under the clear blue skies till the end of eternity… but that was until I came to Equestrian Park itself and right into the middle of a horse heaven. I wanted to live there forever.
The Lázár Equestrian Park owned by the coach driving world champions, Vilmos and Zoltán Lázár nestles among the picturesque lakes of the Gödöllő Hills. It is a favourite destination of local and international tourists, the evidence of which I saw in the large number of tourists buses parked at the gates and the tourists that had already taken their place at the viewing gallery and fanned themselves expectantly.
Everyone here was friendly, which was really the teaser of the best things to come.
Should you or should you not
YES and YES.
Whether you are a horse enthusiast or not (or even if you simply love animals) I’d whole-heartedly recommend watching a horse show at the Lazar Equestrian Park (Lovaspark). This is one of the MUST DO activity in Hungary, even if you here on a short break. I am going to tell you why. Now, where else can you see the famous Lipizzaner stallions and the display of horsemanship by the riders in such a stunning backdrop?
Let me go back to the beginning.
As soon as I arrived, I was greeted with a glass of wine (apple and pear palinka) and fresh scones. I tried the pear palinka – what a burn! Instant shot of adrenaline too, I must say! This put me in the mood for the horses! Bring them on, I said to my host. Let’s see what they got. The host, probably used to the ways of tourists led me warmly by the arm and seated me on the horse carriage for a quick ride through the pastures.
“That will give you an idea of what to expect,” said he and I joined a group already seated in the carriage importantly. I congratulated him on the excellent setting and he said with pride – “the Lázár Equestrian Park provided venue for several gala dinners of the European Union Presidency,” as if that explained everything.
We rolled over the muddy tracks, past some dense overgrowth and then across a clearing making our way back to the farm- zoo in a half circle. There was an interesting mix of farm animals, some rare. Ponies, cows, pigs, goats, sheep, dogs, turkey and few other animals happily munched on fodder. Despite the excellent enclosure they were housed in, it was like going back in time.
I was accompanied to through the stables and into the trophy room and shown a video of the owners participating in their carriage driving sport at world championship level (which have both won numerous times). All I could think of was – what a sporting thing to do! Kudos to the brain behind this park –it somehow put us in touch with our true self.
Plus, you get to enjoy a typical Hungarian feast in the restaurant at the end of the Horse Show!
The Horse Show
The horse show is nothing short of fun. The riders, dressed in the style of the Hungarian horsemen of yore, are very skilled. All through the show, there is a running commentary (in English) about the origins and styles, history of the horses and the role of the horses in the history of Hungary. If you pay attention to the narration, you’ll learn a thing or two – including how the term Goulash Soup came to be. As you can see, I paid attention. The guy was funny. (I managed to get a pic with him too. See below)
Highlight: A horseman standing on the rumps of two black galloping horses and driving three more ahead.
You can watch the demonstrations of traditional Hungarian horse riding arts like dressage, horseback archery, javelin throwing etc. The Lazar family has many international riding trophies and takes horsemanship seriously. The performance was energetic and the riders showed of feats like bareback, sidesaddle (female dressed like a Queen) and whip-cracking – how can I forget the little donkey comedy! But the ass was clearly the star!
This was followed by light-hearted whip-cracking contest for the public who win a bottle of home wine!
Typical menu: Goulash soup (go easy on this delicious soup – there is much more food to come), breads, family-style plater of breaded fried meatballs, weinerschnitztel, ribs, sliced roast pork with tomato and cheese, sausages, bacon, breaded fried huge mushrooms, potatoes, rice, red cabbage, salads, coffee and a Hungarian dessert (milk cake). And wine. And some more wine.
While you dine, you will be entertained by a small band of musicians playing traditional music and tunes.
A word of advice: Come hungry!
Planning a wedding? This could be the ideal place for you!
This is an ideal venue for weddings. Quite dreamy, in fact. Would I like to be married here? Yes, as soon as the horseman agrees, of course, but that is another story. The newlyweds I was told, can arrive at the scene of the garden ceremony in a white carriage – the wedding gift of the Equestrian Park. There is a small chapel right there on the green lawns, just to give you that effect. The restaurant can hold up to 750 guests so you are sorted, if you like big weddings!
Getting there
Via M3 motorway
Exit the motorway at the Aszód-Bag-Tura exit, turn left at the stop sign, then after five hundred meters choose the 3rd exit into the traffic circle onto Road 3 towards Budapest (lookout for the “Lázár Lovaspark” sign). After about 5 km, turn right at the Domonyvölgy exit.
By Route 30
On leaving Gödöllő – Máriabesnyő proceed towards Aszód on the Road 3 (the old Road 3) after the M3 bridge, 500 m from the 37 km milestone, at the green Domonyvölgy sign and at the “Lázár Lovaspark” sign turn left. This road leads to the Lázár Equestarian Park.
Public transport
Board the bus from the Stadion bus terminal going to Domonyvölgy. Walk across the No.3 main road towards the little road, next the holiday houses (about 700 m) until you can see the main gate of the Lazar Equestrian Park.
