Kigali is a fascinating example of a future-focused African city. Recently I visited this beautiful city of thousand hills. To say I was blown away by Rwanda and everything that it offered, would be playing down the magic that country cast on me. Twenty four years after the genocide, it has revived itself into an investment, educational and entrepreneurial hub. Sushi joints, yoga studios, bakeries, artisan coffee shops, and even a co-working space for start-ups can be found here. The nightlife is something to write home about, so is the food and you will be spoilt for choice for dance clubs, sports bars, and live music.
More than everything else, it is SAFE.
Tree lined, wide roads in a spotlessly clean city, Kigali is easily the best kept city in Africa. An ultramodern convention center dominates the cityscape and gleaming new buildings give the city a sense of stability. The undulating skyline of red-roofed houses, terraced farm plots, and brilliant green foliage is stunning. Crime is rare and police do their job, including handing out speeding tickets. You are never going to be hassled or over-charged and you can be assured that you are never going to be mugged or robbed.
Things to know before you travel to Kigali, Rwanda
First let me start with some essential Kigali tips.
- Don’t bring plastic into the country. Rwanda prides itself on being plastic free. Remember to pack your things in paper bags before you arrive in the country. Be prepared to be “searched” for plastic in your baggage.
- Do no ask the locals their ethnicity. Rwandan people have come from a bad place. As a nation, they are working very hard to move forward, forgive and forget their violent past. Do not ask them about genocide unless they want to tell you about it.
- Don’t eat in public. Unlike the rest of Africa, you will hardly find any food carts or food being sold openly. This also translates into “do not eat in public.” Rwandans take this rule seriously. Eat at designated spots.
- Dress code. While there is no strict dress code to be followed, make sure you are properly dressed. Flip flops in public are frowned upon.
- Avoid drinking tap water. Drinking tap water may not kill you, but best avoid it if you are not used to it. Most hotels and restaurants have free water stations where you can fill up your bottle.
Places to see in Kigali
- Kigali Genocide Memorial
One of the most visited sites the Kigali Genocide Memorial is a place that pays tribute to the victims of the 1994 genocide. This site is the resting place for over 250,000 victims. Inside you can see the exhibits and the display of skulls and as you progress from room to room, you’ll end up in rooms with pictures of the victims, including very young children. Audio guide is available if you are up for it.
Entry: Free. However, a small donation is always welcome.
- Presidential Palace and Museum
The house of the former president now turned into a museum has few interesting exhibits – including some “secret” rooms and an odd presidential nightclub. Entry fee of RWFM6000 applies to tourists. Wreckage from Juvenal Habyarimana’s presidential plane lies on the grounds, in the same place it was shot down – just over his garden wall. The gardens are well kept but keep your eyes peeled for a giant python that escaped when the plane crashed into the python pond.
Open: 9am –5pm daily.
- Kimironko Market
The busiest market in Kigali, Kimironko Market is the liveliest spot in the city. Products from Uganda, Kenya, and the Democratic Republic of Congo get sold here, including local produce and is considered to be the mother of all markets selling everything fruit, vegetables, fabric, clothing, shoes, and general household necessities. This is the place to experience Rwanda at its liveliest.
- Inema Art Centre
Kigali’s art scene is on the rise, although visitors coming from other parts of Africa might disagree. All over the city, you can see evidences of this – and of these, the Inema Art Centre is a rising star – it is home to some of the finest talents in the country. The gallery founded by Emmanuel Nkuranga and Innocent Nkurunziza displays the work of different Rwandan artists.
- Caplaki Crafts Market
A small handicraft market that sells everything from traditional masks, paintings, jewelry and musical instruments. Operating out of a series of colourful wooden huts, Caplaki Crafts Market is the place to go if you are looking for interesting souvenirs to take back home.
- Hop on a Go Kigali tour
Go Kigali Tours offers the easiest and the quickest way to explore the city. With the option of full and half day tours led by local guides, visitors get the best of Kigali, the chance to learn and eat local food. The tour also includes a visit to Kigali’s famous Milk Bars and five neighbourhoods.
Food in Rwanda
The local food is delicious, fresh, largely meat-based and locally sourced. Plenty of options for vegetarians – while there aren’t any vegan restaurants, most places have vegetarian option that could easily be modified to suit your need. Fruits can be found in plenty. Some of the must try food in Rwanda include –
Brochettes – grilled meat or fish on a stick found in nearly every restaurant.
Sambaza– a finger sized fish from Lake Kivu, best eaten deep fried.
Akabanga – whether you are eating brochette or matoke, this chili oil can spice up your meal in incredible ways, usually with just one drop.
Urwagwa – home-made banana beer, best consumed cold.
Matoke – an African staple made of steamed and mashed plantains
Beer –no meal is complete without a bottle of chilled Primus or Mutzig, a local beer bottled in the Lake Kivu area.
Restaurants & Coffee Shops
Here are a few restaurants and coffee shops that I particularly enjoyed eating at during my stay.
Coffee: Inzora Roof Top Café (best views and a place to browse books), Java House (Kigali Heights), Bourbon Coffee (malls). Chez Lando (Remera) offers great local fare and the best place to mingle with locals. Repub Lounge, another great place for traditional food, upmarket settings and fantastic views. Asia Kitchen (Remera) has decent Thai food, Zaaffran Indian Restaurant does a good job of its Indian menu while Panorama Restaurant (Des Mille Collines) is a great option for fine dining.
Cooking Class Tours
If you have time to spare and want the insider guide to Rwandan cuisine, sign up for a cooking class. The Nyamirambo Women’s Centre offers cooking classes for only RWF 15,000. Not only will you be helping vulnerable women in the community make a living, but you’ll get an authentic look into the preparation and creation of traditional meals.
Try these unique things in Kigali
Ride a moto: The uber of Kigali, these moto-bike taxis are the easiest, cheapest and safest ways to get around the city. The moto-drivers are required to wear uniform and the bikes have moto-meters so you are never worried about being overcharged. It is an interesting way to see the city. Helmets are a must.
Eat brochette and fries: To truly feel like a local, eat brochette and fries. This is also the best way to be accepted into Rwandan lifestyle. Brochettes are grilled meat or fish pieces on sticks.
Walking Tour: Join a walking tour in the Muslim Quarter (Nyamirambo) and enjoy the vibrancy of the most colourful and active neighbourhood in Kigali. The tour begins at the Women’s Centre and takes you through some very interesting sights.
Get your dressed tailored: Buy your colourful and vibrant kitenge fabric at any of the markets (Kimironko has a vast section for kitenge fabric) in Kigali and have them tailor made right there, sometimes within an hour.
Souvenirs you can buy only in Rwanda
Pili Pili – this fiery chili is the base for Akabanga, Rwanda’s famous chili oil with consumers all over the world.
Baskets: Also called Peace Baskets, the Amahoro baskets are unique to Rwanda. Triangular at the top and round at the base they are sold through cooperatives all over the country.
Imigongo: A unique piece of art that is made from cow dung mixed with colour. This traditional art form is made across the country, and can be purchased at any art cooperative or market.
Gourmet Coffee: Rwanda is incredibly famous for its rich and fruity coffee. Grab a few different varieties before heading home.
Useful Information
How to get to Kigali
Kigali has an international airport (renovation is nearly complete) and is also well connected to the rest of Africa. There are no direct flights from UK or US, and most visitors arrive at Entebbe International Airport, Uganda or take the one stop flights. It is also possible to arrive to Kigali by road from Uganda, DR Congo and Burundi.
Kigali International Airport is about 15-minute drive from central Kigali. Uniformed taxi drivers are in abundance around the airport and will zip you downtown for a negotiable fee of around Rwf10,000 (US$15). Every vehicle entering the airport zone is thoroughly checked so arrive early to avoid delays.
Where to stay in Kigali
Mass tourism has not found its way to Kigali (which is a good thing) but Kigali is well equipped to cater to travelers of all budgets. From swanky five-star hotel to delightful Bed and Breakfast, there is everything. Bear in mind that accommodation in Kigali is not cheap.
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