My arrival into Nepal was nothing short of an adventure – and to think that I was here for the adventure itself – trekking in the Annapurna – Himalayas.
My flight landed at Bhairawa (the newly made international airport) and after two hours wait, announced that it would fly no further. The passengers were put on a domestic Buddha Air to Kathmandu. Eventually I arrived about 4 hours late and my welcome party at Kathmandu was gone. I ended up taking a taxi to my hotel in Thamel.
Frankly, it took a bit of energy to decide if I liked Nepal or already hated it because my first impression of it was of a dusty, chaotic and polluted city. As you can tell, my arrival into Nepal was not off to a good start. But that is another story.
Crazy mad traffic: Welcome to Kathmandu
The roads and side streets were cluttered with cars and motorbikes weaving along the narrow streets. Horns blared while people with face masks rushed about nonchalantly. I saw at once that Kathmandu was going to be hard to like. It was also going to be hard to hate.
The pollution I could understand. Kathmandu is surrounded by high mountains, which naturally trap the dust and pollution. Where had I heard that Kathmandu Valley was called the Dust Bowl? It was probably true too.
That being said, Kathmandu is where every hiker started their journey into the Nepali mountains – whether it be the Annapurna Circuit, Everest or something in between. So, whether your loved it or hated it, there was no escaping it.
Thamel and its vibrant neighbourhood
Like everyone else, I opted to stay in Thamel – the beating heart of Kathmandu with its hotels, restaurants, cafes, mountain gears and souvenirs. As a visitor to this city, there is every chance that you’ll be staying in Thamel or thereabouts – considering that is where you are likely to find everything.
The streets of Thamel are rather narrow but fun to explore. I did find myself pressing into the stores when a vehicle passed by. that was the fun of walking down a street filled with hiking gear shops, cafes (serving traditional and Western cuisine), money exchanges, shops selling handicrafts, tea, yak wool blankets and pashminas.
I walked the length of Thamel area several times in a day – sometimes for coffee (I particularly recommend the local coffee chain (Himalayan Java), foot massages (Real Therapy was a great find), and eating Nepali Thali set. This is easily the country’s national dish and can be found just about everywhere. Nepalis and tourists are particularly proud of this fare.
Every time I set foot out of the hotel, I found something new and exciting.
At nightfall, Thamel transforms into a bustling haven for people out to have a good time. People are out getting dinner, seeking hiking gear for budget prices, and the streets are bursting with people and motorbikes.
Trekking store after trekking store merged as one and it was hard to keep your bearings.
Read about Kathmandu’s Living Goddess
The Big 7 (UNESCO World Heritage Sites
Swayambhunath Temple (Monkey Temple)
I had two days before leaving for Pokhara to begin my Annapurna Trek. Straightaway i made up my mind to visit Kathmandu’s Big 7 (all UNESCO World Heritage Sites) starting with Swayambhunath or the Monkey Temple, a Buddhist temple sitting on a high hill above the city. One can easily reach here in about 30 minutes of walk but I decided against walking and hailed a taxi.
The temple gets it nickname form the number of monkeys at this place – there are so many of them – jumping from statue to statue or running up the stairs and soon you even forget their presence. Be advised against getting personal with them, they might be used to people but can turn nasty in seconds.
I reached the top of the stairway and there it was – the imposing white stupa (tower) painted with the eyes of Buddha. Once here, there is no escaping the smell of incense (and smoke), ringing bells and thousands of devotees. It is a very popular place for the locals to pray.
It’s customary to then walk clockwise around the prayer wheels at the base of the stupa. The detail embossed into each building and structure within Swayambhunath is beautiful. I spent time wandering around, breathing in the incense, taking lots of photos but mostly just observing the daily life of Nepalis. The view of Kathmandu from here is stunning – and if you happen to be there on a clear day, it is a bonus.
Durbar Square, Kathmandu
The Durbar Square would certainly have been a sight to behold in its heyday – that is not saying it has lost its charm today – it is still beautiful, despite the ill-effects of the 2015 earthquake visible in places. Many buildings continue to remain off limits, some are under renovation and some were reduced to rubble.
Durbar Square is located outside the old Royal Palace and is Kathmandu’s best example of traditional buildings with many of the temples dating back to the 17th and 18th centuries.
It is the one place every tourist or traveller visits, no matter what. There were people praying, locals chatting on the tower terraces, tourists posing for pictures and in one corner women selling bright orange flowers. It was here the ancient kings were crowned and legitimized. It is also known as the museum of temples.
This iconic Square is about a 30-minute walk from Thamel. It is mostly flat but one needs to be careful when dealing with the traffic around this place. On my way to Durbar Square, I found one of the most beautiful temples I’d seen in Kathmandu hidden down a side street.
I don’t know its name but there are many temples like this throughout the city. I just loved the detail and seeing people go about their prayer routine.
Take the time to wander Kathmandu and you’ll find temples, unique souvenirs, and cafes. You’ll be sure to want to visit again one day soon. If you hang around long enough you will even get to see one of Kathmandu’s unique cultural ceremonies – a sight of the Living Goddess.
Entry to the site is $10 USD (members of SAARC nations pay less) which includes entry into the old Royal Palace.
Pashupatinath Temple
On the bank of River Bagmati (you can’t miss this as you leave the airport heading into town) is one of the most sacred Hindu Temples dedicated to Shiva and a World Heritage Site. The “temple” here refers to a collection of big and small temples, ashrams and other religious site. It was certainly a visit that I am likely to remember for a long time. I am not sure I was prepared for the sensory overload at this temple – it is also the site of ritual cremations.
I entered the temple through the gate that brought me directly to the cremations area (ghat) – where natural, bodies were being burnt. The embers are allowed to cool down before being thrown into the river in the hope that it will eventually make it to River Ganga.
The main temple has a golden spire, and it is considered to be a masterpiece of Hindu architecture.
Note: Only Hindus are allowed to enter the main temple. However, from the Eastern bank of the river the main temple can be seen in its whole beauty.
Boudhanath Stupa
One of the largest stupas in the world, the Boudhanath Stupa is very important for Nepalese & Tibetan Buddhist communities in Kathmandu. For me, it was a very extraordinary and fulfilling experience in every way – it has spiritual depth, rich cultural heritage and architectural beauty.
The stupa’s significance is not limited to mere tourism, instead it is a place where a number of rituals are held, and prayers are offered every day. The stupa symbolises peace and enlightenment. It is not just a stupa but a vibrant Buddhist community. Surrounding the stupa are numerous monasteries (gompas), each with unique architectural designs and spiritual significance.
Top tip: Before picking a spot for lunch or coffee, walk around the stupa three times clockwise. Even amongst the crowds, this walk can feel like a meditation as you witness locals worshipping and admire the colourful prayer flags flapping in the breeze.
Try finding a rooftop seating and on a clear day you will even see the snow-covered Himalayas in the distance.
Note: The entry fee for foreigners is NPR 400 and NPR 100 for members of SAARC nations.
It is located about 6km from Thamel.
Bhaktapur
A short drive from Kathmandu, Bhaktapur does look like what Kathmandu might have been before modernization hit. Life here is slow and peaceful and its Durbar Square clean and uncluttered. Of course, the earthquake destroyed a fair bit of this place but post renovation, the courtyard does look magnificent. Bhaktapur has many landmarks – including the three-storey temple dedicated to goddess Taleju Bhavani.
Bhaktapur has a special charm. A stroll through Durbar Square with its intricately carved temples stand as reminders of the city’s rich history.
Note: Besides its fabulous temples, there is one other going going for this city – juju dhau (king curd). Be sure to grab a kataaro (bowl) of one whilst exploring the alleys surrounding the temple.
While exploring the hidden courtyards, look out for potters shaping clay in traditional workshops.
Durbar Square Lalitpur (Patan)
Lalitpur translates to City of Beauty and is probably the best example of Newari architecture in Nepal. The Royal Palace with its red-brick walls, tiered rooftop pavilions and latticed window screens was originally built in the 14th century, but the current structure includes many expansions that took place in the 17th and 18th centuries. The Patan Museum, housed in the former residence of the Malla kings, has one of the finest collections of religious art in Asia. The Golden Temple is a Buddhist monastery, just north of Durbar Square, which was originally founded in the 12th Century, but has existed in its present location since 1405.
Parts of the city were badly damaged in the 2015 earthquake, although it escaped lightly but like the other two Durbar Square (Kathmandu and Bhaktapur) the square is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Changu Narayan – Kathmandu Valley
The Changu Narayan Temple (short distance away from Bhaktapur on the way to Nagarkot) is considered the oldest temple in Nepal. According to legends, Changu Narayan Temple existed as early as 325 AD. The temple is guarded by pairs of noble beasts: lions, elephants and griffons. The roof struts are carved with detailed tantric figures. But there is beauty and craftsmanship in all corners of this courtyard, from the golden temple door with its gigantic ancient padlock, to the 7th century image of Vishnu astride Garuda in the northwest corner of the compound. There is a small fee to be pai at the entrance but on the upside, it is not very crowded and gives you the space to explore it at leisure.
Things You Should Know
- Most nationalities can get a 15-day visa on arrival at Kathmandu Airport. Indians get visa on arrival at no cost. Cash payment can be made in several currencies including INR, AED, USD (Australian and Canadian dollars), Euro, Thai Baht etc.
- Kathmandu is very polluted. It helps to bring a face mask.
- The local currency is the Nepalese Rupee. One USD is about 135 NPR (the value changes daily). Nepal is mostly a cash society. Although some stores and coffee shops accept cards.
- While there is a horde of hiking stores in the Thamel neighbourhood – everything is a copy, but you can get items very cheap. The quality may not be tops, but it works. For quality products, shop at the regular stores.
- It’s very easy to hire sleeping bags and walking poles in Thamel. Prices start from $1 USD a day for sleeping bags.
- Not all hotels or hostels have 24-hour hot water. Most places have hot water in the mornings.
Accommodation in Kathmandu
Kathmandu offers a diverse range of accommodations -from luxurious hotels offering traditional Nepali charm to warm and cozy guesthouses and backpacker accommodation tucked away in vibrant alleyways.
Thamel, the mecca of accommodation has everything and even if you haven’t booked in advance, you can easily find something to suit your needs.
In the outskirts of the city, you’ll find some stunning resorts amidst beautiful mountain views. Most accommodations come with breakfast. I found Booking.com to be the best source. The next best – ask anyone!
What to eat
Dal-bhat: The country’s staple diet, dal-bhat comprises lentil soup (dal) paired with steamed rice (bhat). It’s often accompanied by vegetables, pickles, and sometimes, achar (spicy sauce). Non vegetarian options are available.
Momos: Dumplings stuffed with veggies, minced lamb or chicken and served with different kinds of sauces.
Sel-roti: Somewhat like a bagel and a doughnut, this is a popular snack is made of rice flour that is deep fried to make it crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside.
Thupka: A type of noodle-soup popular in the mountains, containing meat, eggs or just vegetable. This dish is said to be inspired by tibetan and Chinese cuisines.
Juju Dhau: Also known as the ‘king curd’, Juju Dhau is a type of creamy, thick, and sweet yogurt made with buffalo milk. the actual recipe is a closely guarded secret and is most popular in Bhaktapur area.
Tongba: Also called ‘Tibetan Hot Beer’, this is a very famous local beer (millet-based) that people sip from a cast like vessels through bamboo straws. It is also a traditional drink in Nepal.
Getting around
All major tourist areas of Kathmandu are serviced by local taxis. One can find them anywhere and hail them off the road. All taxis in the city are fitted with fare meters.
Found in the main tourist area of Thamel, cycle-rickshaws make for an exciting experience apart from being a great way to traverse the narrow back lanes of Kathmandu.
Riding a public bus is an excellent way to explore the local way of life in Kathmandu. There are blue and green buses that ply around certain localities and cost between NPR 20-35 for regular trips depending on the distance. Keep small change and stay alert for your stop.
Hiring a motorcycle to travel around Kathmandu is another way to get around, with numerous motorcycle rental shops and agencies in Thamel renting them out by the day or even hour.
Share a ride:
This is not a new concept to Nepal but since its inception, it has transformed the lives of local and tourists alike. Quick, easy and cheap, these rides are very popular especially during peak hours. Among the top players are Tootle, Pathao and InDrive. You’d need a local number to book a ride, but ask any friendly nepali around and he will be happy book a ride for you.
Conclusion
Once I got to know the city better, I was able to look past the smog and find intricate temples; hidden cafes serving delicious banana lassi and piping hot masala tea; and a city welcoming back tourists wholeheartedly after a devastating earthquake.
To my surprise, I fell in love with Kathmandu and Nepal, and I’m already planning my return. The Thamel area, the temples, the people, the shopping, the food, and the infectious energy of a country that embraces the beauty of nature.
