Karlovy Vary – a name that is associated with class and luxury, James Bond, Becherovka, wafer and thermal springs. A town so unique that would linger in your mind long after you have left it. I totally fell in love with this town and having visited in pretty much all seasons, winter, spring and summer, I am a huge fan of its uniqueness and charm.

Here are a few reasons why you’ll fall in love with it too. Hopefully!

I’ll throw in a few sound tips on what to buy and see, while I am at it, you know, just to spice it up.

A brief history of Karlovy Vary

A little history is always a good thing, I believe. Helps you understand the whys and wherefores and the names of historical figures that might appear in the narration from time to time.

To begin with, Karlovy Vary (earlier Carlsbad) was founded in the Middle Ages by Charles IV, King of Bohemia and Holy Roman Emperor during one of his hunting trips. He chanced upon the mineral-rich thermal waters and decided to make this valley into a major “spa-town” – which is what Karlovy Vary is famous for even today. There are about 70 or more springs here, 13 of which are used for drinking cures. In the 18th and 19th centuries Karlovy Vary was the preferred choice of Europe’s rich and famous, the aristocrats, musicians (Beethoven and Mozart), Tolstoy…you get the idea, who came here to spent long hour drinking and soaking up the thermal waters.

First things first…

Get yourself a porcelain cup with a spout. I’ll tell you why in a minute. Remember the hot springs that I just mentioned? Well, the water is scalding hot. I learnt it the hard way. On my first visit, I attempted to fill up my plastic bottle (yes, plastic) bottle with water from the spring. An old lady sipping from her fancy porcelain cup stopped me at once. “It will melt your bottle,” she said. “The water should heal you -you don’t want the chemicals in the plastic to poison you.”

I saw the sense in that and invested a few Euros in a fancy, let’s call it the spa cup, to drink from.

Back to the springs. The waters of Karlovy springs are nothing short of miraculous. Diabetes? Arthritis? Tummy trouble? The cure can be found just by stretching out your hands and filling your cup.  For centuries, health disorders have been known to vanish by merely sipping these waters.

Important Note No 1: Karlovy Vary is teeming with springs – and most of them share the same mineral-makeup. The temperatures of the water vary – just saying.

Important Note No 2: In your quest for cure, you might have the urge to overdo the drinking – but the recommended limit is about one liter a day. Also, you might want to pee often, but worry not. The town has thoughtfully installed toilets everywhere. The water is free to drink, but you have to pay to use the loo. Keep some change handy.

Czech these out!

Since Karlovy Vary is all about thermal spring waters, it is important to know just what you are photographing …and of course drinking from. Of all the lovely springs, these are a few where you will find people in large numbers, dipping their beaks and discussing the taste and temperature of water energetically.

The Hot Spring Colonnade: Right on Tepla River, the Hot Spring Colonnade (inside the ghastly-looking communist-styled concrete structure) has a number of fountains where you can drink from. Temperature of the waters vary at different fountains and just in case you have not bought your fancy drinking cup, there are plenty of kiosks right there to put you at ease. Right outside this is the majestic fountain, standing alone that shoots thermal waters high into the air and is the hottest spring in Karlovy Vary.

The Mill Colonnade: The next big colonnade is the Mill Colonnade. In fact, it is the traditional symbol of the town with about 124 Corinthian columns, is the largest of all the colonnades and naturally most visited. There is a special area for spa-concerts (of course free) which happens from time to time. The waters in the fountains here are extremely hot. Drink with caution.

The Market Colonnade: You can’t miss this white wooden building no matter how much you try- because it is right there, and also because after all this is where the original spring where Charles IV came for relief from aches and pains. There are five fountains here and every one of them crowded. Looking at the number of people photographing the white, decorative building or of themselves drinking water from the fountains I realized that I’d never get my moment – which I didn’t, so I gave up the effort altogether. Oh, I drank out of Charles IV’s spring alright.

Park Colonnade: A bit of 19^th century ornate Viennese ironwork catches your attention at first, till of course you stroll down till the end and there, right in front of you is the Snake Spring – a bit of a heart stopper alright, because hey, it takes a while to fall in with the idea of a sculpted snake spouting hot, curing waters. I will admit here that I did not drink from this spring – firstly because I had been drowning inside with all the waters from the earlier springs and secondly, I have a thing against snakes.

There are other things to do here…

You must be, by now drowning in the thermal waters, but the good news is that there is more to do and see in Karlovy Vary than what the guide books will have you think. It is unfortunate how this beautiful town gets type-casted as an “exclusive spa town” for the rich and famous (although you will agree that everything here is pricey). So, let’s have a look at what you can do for a little less.

1. Diana Tower
   The highest point on the town with gorgeous views, Diana Tower is where you must go. To get up there, well there is a funicular right around the corner from Grand Hotel Pupp that whisks you uphill. Or if you feel particularly energetic (after all the spa water), you can hike uphill. To reach the top of the observation tower, you can choose to climb the stairs or ride the elevator. The views are amazing.
2. Grand Hotel Pupp
   The name is a bit of a joke, especially if you knew the correct way to pronounce it – yes, its “poop” but the hotel is grand! This legendary hotel has been featured in several movies – Casino Royale and The Last Holiday to name a few, has a Walk of Fame and does some great dishes on the menu. You do feel like a royalty when you pass through its hallowed interiors with gleaming chandeliers.

Stroll all along River Tepla

Walk along the river (end to end of the pedestrian street should take you about twenty minutes or longer if you pause to admire the old rainbow coloured buildings). Browse in the boutiques selling high-end European clothing brands. In 2015 I was singularly lucky (thanks to a winter sale) so I could actually afford a buy a dress in Karlovy Vary that cost Euro 250 (the only time I got to wear it was at my book launch a year later).

The Church of St Mary Magdalene
Across Hot Spring Colonnade, the Baroque Church of St Mary Magdalene built in 1737 appears out of the hill majestically. Take a look inside to see the ornate altar and a Gothic statue of Mary.

The Peter House
Right across the Mill Colonnade, on the other side of the river you’ll see the Peter House, a half-timbered building which is now a pizza restaurant. A plaque outside is dedicated to Peter the Great.

Take a break – have some coffee

Now, there is a thing about Karlovy Vary that simply cannot be ignored and that is its magnetism. No amount of self-will can keep you away from its cafes or more importantly, it’s Becherovka. I’ll get to the wafers in a minute.

Becherovka is herbal liqueur produced in Karlovy Vary and is the cure for all ailments in town – it is often hard to tell what works more effectively – Becherovka or the thermal waters. But it is heartwarming to know that as long as a shot of this digestive is at hand, you can kiss goodbye to bad health.

A note on Becherovka: If you are really into this, take a walk down to the Jan Becher Museum (closer to the Park Colonnade). Why? Because not only can you learn about this elixir, tour the old cellars, but do a Becherovka tasting while you are at it.

For those who love coffee more than liqueurs and thermal waters but want to taste of everything, Karlovy Vary has a solution right there at the Hot Spring Colonnade. At Café Respirum, coffee is made of thermals waters with a shot of Becherovka.

Cost: Eur 5.60. too much of it will make you very spirited…go easy!

You have been warned.

Another coffee stop? I wholeheartedly recommend Café Elefant, a Beethoven favourite.

Now that you’ve had your caffeine, liqueur and waters all in one shot, it’s time to nibble on some spa wafers. In Karlovy Vary, wafers are a tradition and come in all flavours – chocolate, hazelnuts, cinnamon and what not. Grab as many as you can – you don’t want to regret not buying it.

Just so you know…

Glass making is a Karlovy tradition and Moser, the Kings of Glass-making have a boutique right here (and a factory some distance away, just saying).  In 1800’s Ludwig Moser opened his first glass shop right here in what was called Carlsbad and given the number of aristocrats and monarchs that passed this way, his products became hot property. Even today, Moser Glass finds a place of pride in the homes of royalty and the rich and famous.

MAKE THE BEST OF YOUR PRAGUE VISIT