The Chez Galip Hair Museum, Avanos

Avanos, a small town, 9 km away from Goreme is essentially a pottery town, picturesque, cobbled and easy to negotiate. Located on the banks of Turkey’s longest river, the Red River (Kızılırmak), Avanos is surrounded with many touristic attractions such as Zelve, Çavuşin Church and many others. This little town has, for more reasons than one, established itself on the world touristic map – not to mention a place on the “weird places to visit” list.

That was my destination – the weird place I mentioned – when I set out in the cold December morning, reluctant to leave the warm and toasty cave hotel in Goreme I was staying at.

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Avanos

A bus deposited me on the other side of the river and I swung my way into town over the bridge, enjoying the biting cold. Everywhere I looked, I saw giant pots, until I entered a few random stores (to escape the cold) and saw intricately designed smaller version of giant pots installed along the roads. Not the one to be sidetracked by these beauties, I braved the cold and plunged myself into the task I had set out to complete.

The Hair Museum

Chez Galips Hair Museum has a Guinness Record and is also high on the list of “weird” things to see in the world. My own experiences at the hair museum were nothing short of mesmerizing (and a little spooky if you please) – for it is not everyday you find yourself crawling through the caves with hair appearing out of the walls!

My desire to experience something strange took me to Galip’s Cave – and after first having tea that the “managers” of the pottery-store cum museum insisted on, I was taken into the cave. First we passed through “cave rooms” with filled beautiful pottery. The chap then stopped at a very narrow entrance to what seemed like the way to a dimly lit interrogation chamber and signaled me upwards. It was bad enough that a visit to the Derinkuyu underground city had proved I suffered from claustrophobia I didn’t know I had, but to find myself facing a narrow opening in a cave once again was freaking me out.

Chez Galip Museum — Hair ‘raising’ sight of the museum

But I marched ahead – eager to become an “immortal” part of the hair-donating brigade that before me had braved the narrow cave openings to enter into the hairy and dank interiors of Galip’s museum.

There was hair everywhere – pale yellow light from the low-watt bulbs made it look spookier somehow – it was also cold inside. Photography is not encouraged inside for obvious reasons. Thousands of women who have “donated” a lock of their hair, leave behind addresses on a slip of paper on which the hair is stuck before being placed on the wall, earthen pot – or whatever has any place left. The only way I could get a pic of myself “donating” hair was after agreeing to buy pottery, chat with them about India and drink some more sweetened tea.

But in the end I managed.

The Chez Galip Hair Museum in Avanos, Turkey is as weird as it can get. This cave museum has over 16,000 hair locks of women from across the world.

Pottery is a thriving industry

Everywhere in this town, you are bound to run into a pottery and ceramic store and besides wanting to buy every item of display, you are bound to fall in love with the intricate designs and patterns (if not the potter himself). This place is rather magical.

Chez Galip Museum in Avanos — The beautiful hand painted pottery displayed on the walls of the Chez Galip’s cave!

The most visible feature of Avanos is its earthenware pottery – in fact most of the town dwellers depend on this trade for their livelihood. it is hard to tell which shop is better than the other, because every store has something unique to offer. The ceramic trade in this district and its countless pottery factories date right back to the Hittites. The clay for the production of ceramic is procured from Red river. The cobbled streets and a wobbly wooden bridge across the river makes it a very popular destination.

Useful Information

Avanos is 18km from Nevsehir and is within the historic and tourist region of Cappadocia
The earlier name of Avanos was Venessa.
There is an unsteady bridge over the Red River and it fun to walk over it to the other side which ends in a park.
Entry into the museum is free. Buses to Avanos are available from Goreme/Kayseri/Nevsehir.
Since it is not a very busy town, the frequency of buses are few and far between – so check the time and plan your trip accordingly.
Money exchange houses are few although few jewelers will agree to change your money – and give you good rates too.
If you are staying in Goreme and are visiting Avanos, it is a good idea to buy essentials here – Goreme is a typically touristy town and slightly expensive.