Chicago and a Hemingway connection

Chicago is like that charming stranger one can’t help but fall in love with at first sight.

I’ve often wondered if it is possible to be in romantic love with a city. By this I mean Chicago because, it was here that I truly understood the truth behind that.

My first experience with the wide streets of Chicago, the cold and crisp air cold (and thus the name Windy City) and the light reflecting off the buildings just so made me realize that at first sight that it was a place that I would be in love with forever. I thus answered my own question.

From simple to grandiose, I imbued everything here – going to a comedy show and the pond in Lincoln Park, walking around Millennium Park and eating at deep-dish and tavern pizza shops, going to pop-ups and museums and architecture tours. What I remember most is walking by the river and seeing the brilliance of the buildings in the sun.

Chicago is a city full of bridges

A city to remember

When I visited Chicago, I only wanted to see the home of Ernest Hemingway and eat the famed deep-dish pizza. But before I could tick these two items off the list, I was sailing on the river admiring the architecture …

Another fun fact I discovered was that the brownie was invented here when in 1893 Bertha Palmer, wife of the millionaire Potter Palmer, wanted a new dessert to serve at the World’s Columbian Exposition.

In many ways, Chicago had everything I expected from a great international city—beautiful buildings, great food and entertainment, and a history of contributing to literature, art, culture, and technology. Add that to its innumerable parks, its idyllic lakeside location and diverse population of friendly people and you get the picture. I am not so much of a shopper but strolling around the Magnificent Mile filled with boutiques was altogether another feeling. And in the midst of this hip and happening street, I also discovered quietude – in the form of Fourth Presbyterian Church of Chicago built in 1871. Its courtyard filled with green came as a refuge from the wind and fatigue one experiences from walking the Magnificent Mile.

Home of literature

Coming back to the first reason for my visit – Ernest Hemingway.

Every lover of literature knows this American novelist’s name. Ernest Miller Hemingway best known for The Old Man and the Sea and A Farewell to Arms began his writing career in his hometown of west suburban Chicago, Oak Park. From memorable short stories to elaborate novels, he expressed it all and his accomplishments for this hard world resulted in him winning a Nobel Prize in Literature (1954).

I took the train to Oak Park and walked the distance to the house where he was born and lived for years. The best place, if any, to begin exploring the roots of the author’s life and work, as I intended. This Queen Anne home was built in 1890 by his maternal grandparents and was the first home in Oak Park to have electricity.


Sadly though, there were not too many visitors, which worked well in a way because I had the entire place to myself. When EH was growing up there were prairies around but today it is filled with stylish houses and his house has been turned into a museum.

It was not just EH who made this city famous, but others like Upton Sinclair (American writer, muckraker, political activist who wrote nearly 100 books) and poet carl Sandburg added their own character to the city.

It is incredible that although the writers, poets and everyone who lived in this city are dead now, their character is still etched in this city. I’ve never been in a place like this.

Two miles, 18 moveable bridges and Cloud Gate

Like a first-time visitor, I took the 90-minutes Architecture River tour which gave me the chance of cruising down all the three branches of the historic Chicago River, admiring dozens of landmark buildings. One thing that struck me was the number of bridges across the river. As it turns out, there are 18 moveable bridges in the 2- mile stretch. The most famous of them being the Du Sable Bridge at N. Michigan Avenue but that does not take away the beaty of all the others. At night cafes alongside the river comes alive and the bridges light up. An ethereal feeling. A simple evening walk can lead you to some new discoveries – like when I had just finished ordering a coffee, I heard drumbeats. Following the thin crowd to the source of the sound, I arrived upon a group of street musicians totally topping the moment. It felt as though half of the city had converged here to watch the performance. This, I was told, was a common occurrence in Chicago because the city was very musically inclined.

Another fascinating aspect of Chicago is the Cloud Gate – a sculpture installed in the Millennium Park (it’s called The Bean due to its shape). It can be hard to get a free moment here, because the place is thronging with tourists trying to get the distorted reflection of the city in its highly polished surface.

Some days I wonder whether in another life, I am still cruising on the river, in awe of the ever-changing color of the water. Some days, when I walk up hills of home, I imagine the cold.

Perhaps you can be in love with a city, but it must be unrequited. The city doesn’t care.

Things to know

Deep-Dish Pizza

Chicago is home of the delicious deep- dish pizza. This scrumptious style of pizza with layers of cheese, meat, toppings, and chunky tomato sauce in a deep pan lined with a thick crust is something you’ll want to eat every day.

The Green River

On St Patrick’s Day (Mar 11), the whole river turns green in colour. Grab yourself a spot on any of the numerous bridges and watch this event unfold. For over sixty years, this tradition has been kept alive in Chicago – and so popular it has been that other cities have adopted this method to colour their waterways.

The tradition was started by plumbers who used bright green dye to identify leaks in pipes, which would often stain their white coveralls. In 1962, members of the Chicago Journeymen Plumbers Local Union who were feeling festive dumped 100 pounds of that dye into the Chicago River, which turned it green for an entire week.

Chicago highlights

 There are a thousand reasons to visit Chicago – but I am sharing Top 5 reason why one should visit this romantic city.

  1. See the Cloud Gate a.k.a The Bean, one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks.
    2. Explore Millennium Park filled with public art, free events, and family-friendly activities.
  2. Go up the Sky Deck Chicago, home to The Ledge and spectacular views inside one of the tallest buildings in the world.
    4. Admire jaw-dropping views at 360 Chicago and go on a thrill ride located high above the city.
    5. Stroll The Magnificent Mile on Michigan Avenue, one of the world’s most famous shopping districts.

*** If you have extra time on hands, make sure to visit the 606 (Chicago’s answer to NYC’s High Line). The 2.7 miles long 606 features the elevated Bloomingdale Trail, an idea place to cycle or walk.

 

 

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