Whilst on a train from Samarkand to Bukhara, a fellow passenger lauded my decision to travel into the heart f Uzbekistan. He said, ‘If you don’t have time to travel the entire length of the Silk Road, Bukhara will give you the glimpse of it. It is a city full of character. Don’t forget the hammam. Don’t forget the plov.’ His name was Shuhrat Rahmotov.
In the end, that became the highlight of my Bukhara trip.
The high-speed rail Afrosiyob shot through the Kyzylkum Desert stopping at Kagan, 15km from the city itself. From the orange sands, Bukhara rose like a mirage in the distance. I took a shared cab into the city, the easiest and most efficient way to reach my destination, a guesthouse located at the entrance of the Old City.
Like my fellow passenger had said, it was indeed like going back in time.
Early history of Bukhara
In its time, Bukhara played a key role not only in the trade of gold, silk, and spices but also of culture and religion.
The later years saw invasions and war and the city does feel heavily renovated but it has a “lived in” feeling. It is real.
The city of Bukhara is more than 2,000 years old. Its historic center has been preserved very well for the last two centuries. It gives a peek into the medieval Central Asian Muslim city filled with ancient religious architecture while the numerous covered bazaars reflect the influence of the Silk Roads throughout the long history of Bukhara.
Bukhara was governed by a different set of rulers, the Samanids, who were at the peak of the power in the 10th century. Under their rule Bukhara became a great city of trade and leaning in the 9th and 10th centuries and came to be known as ‘Pillar of Islam.’ It was revived by the Uzbek Saybanids and emirs of Bukhara from the 16th to 19th centuries.
What must you see in Bukhara?
As soon as I arrived, I made haste in looking for lunch. Short distance away from my hotel is the walled Old City within which are family run restaurants, beautiful mosques and madrassahs and authentic houses of that look like museums. I fetched upon Hoja Nasriddin and dig into a hearty meal of plov and fresh salad and round it off with a piala (traditional small bowl of tea).
The next morning, I faced a challenge – what to see in Bukhara? Bukhara is a living museum, meaning everything within sight was worthy of exploration. Like the beginning of every adventure (this did seem like one), I looked for a coffee shop and before long I found myself at Café Wishbone, a German run café in Tim Abdullah Khan, a protected building. It was my way to bucking up for the day ahead.
The café owner offered me a slice of apple cake and over coffee told me the easiest possible way to go about exploring Bukhara.
On her advice, I walked through the covered bazaars to arrive at Po-i-Kalyan, the architectural ensemble that included the Kalon Minaret, the Kalon Mosque and the Mir-i-Arab Madrasah, Bukhara’s star attractions.
Indeed, the Kalon Minaret and Kalon Mosque (right beside it with the spectacular courtyard) is iconic and the stories surrounding it interesting. It is said that Genghis Khan was so impressed by this tower that he ordered it to be spared while his troops destroyed the rest of the city. The Kalon Minaret was built in the 12th century and is 47 meters high: its intricate carvings and decoration is true example of Islamic architecture. The Kalon mosque (originally built in the 15th century as Karakhanid Djuma mosque) was destroyed and rebuilt over the years. It is the largest mosque in Bukhara. The third building in the Po-i-Kalyan, the Mir-i-Arab Madrassa (literal meaning Prince of the Arabs) was the only madrassa allowed to operate during the Soviet era.
Vowing to return in the night, I proceed to the Ark of Bukhara – a stunning architectural wonder that has stood the test of time. Located in the ancient city of Bukhara, this massive fortress dates to the 5th century. It was here the emirs lived. It is said to have been occupied since its construction, although it has seen many renovations and rebuilding over the centuries, the latest being in 1920 when the Bolsheviks seized power from the last emir. Inside the Ark are many ruins and the buildings that remained intact have been converted to museums. Interestingly, I learnt that the main square of the Ark was used for Bukhara’s notorious slave market. At the steep tunnel entrance to the fortress, there are small chambers dug into the walls that were used as public torture chambers by the emirs.
Following this, I proceed to the Bolo-Hauz Mosque across the road to check out its wooden pillars and intricate ceilings. This mosque was built after 1712 and is one of the last and finest of Bukhara’s major buildings prior to the modern era. It served as the personal house of worship for the ruling Khan, who often travelled to and from his Ark palace with great pomp and ceremony. Each of the pillars is fashioned from two tree trunks connected end-to-end and is made of walnut, elm, and poplar wood.
Kalon Minaret a.ka. Tower of Death
There are some interesting stories surrounding Bukhara, most famous one revolves around the Great Tower (Minaret Kalon). Also called ‘Tower of Death’ because once upon a time the Emir of Bukhara famously had prisoners thrown to their death from the top. One story goes thus – There was once a cruel Shah who decided to kill his wife by pushing her from the top. The clever wife who heard this begged her husband to grant her one last wish. He agreed and when the day of her death arrived, she put on all her gowns and petticoats, climbed to the top of the tower and jumped. She didn’t die, her dresses parachuted her gently to the earth below.
The Water Tower or Bukhara Tower
I was the only person that afternoon going up what was once the water tower – now relaunched as a tourist attraction. From the top, I could clearly see (and thus put in perspective) the geography of Bukhara and get a bird’s eye view of the Ark. I highly recommend this activity.
It was nearly time for my hammam, so I slowly made my way back, looking (rather aimlessly) through the piles of souvenir inside the covered bazaars. The markets were surprisingly empty, but it wasn’t hard to imagine the atmospheric clamour that must have filled these halls over the centuries.
Hammam is a truly memorable experience
Excited that I was about to get a taste of the real Bukhara, I step into the steam room of the city’s oldest hammam (Bozori Kord, built in the 14th century), disappointed to find myself the only occupant that evening. My therapist explained to me that she had to come specially for me because there weren’t many women making appointment and it was not allowed for men and women to bathe at the same time. Ninety minutes later, my skin was tingling and soft, thanks to the medicated gel that guaranteed the removal of toxins. This exotic ancient ritual was perhaps the highlight of my Bukhara visit. I was sleepy after this, but there was no way I was going to miss a late evening socializing at Lyabi Haus.
An evening at Lyabi Haus
Lyabi Haus complex is Bukhara’s famous pool-side dining and social centre to chill out. A peaceful yet lively 17th century trading square with music playing in the evenings, and a pond with restaurants around it.
I’d say, if you have visited Bukhara and missed Lyabi Haus, then you are going to regret it. This leafy oasis in the heart of old Bukhara is a place of people watching and relaxation.
The pool which makes a central meeting place in town is rimmed by quaint cafes that back onto mosaic-adorned madrassas and monuments. You’ll most likely pass through here often during your visit so make the time to sit, enjoy a drink and watch the world go by.
Or simply join the queue waiting for a picture of the statue of Hoja Nasriddin as he smiles down from a donkey beside the pool.
Did you know
- The old town of Bukhara is regarded as a living museum with 140 registered monuments.
- The old town area has its own guesthouses and restaurants and set up so that visitors never have to leave it.
- The Zerafshan River flows through both Samarkand and Bukhara.
- Some 80 nationalities make their homes in Bukhara. There are more Tajiks than Uzbeks.
- The famous Bukhara Jews arrived from Persia in the 12th or 13th century. They didn’t speak Hebrew and prospered despite discrimination against them.
Getting around
- Bukhara is about two 2-3 hours by car from Samarkand and about six hours from Tashkent. The flight to Tashkent takes about an hour.
- Bukhara is a walkable city and most places can be reached on foot. Taxis are cheap and easily available.
- The public transportation system consists of buses and minibuses but if you want to visit places outside the Historic Centre of Bukhara, taxis are best.
- The main train station is about 15km away in Kagan. Trains can be caught to Tashkent, Samarkand, Termiz and Dushanbe.
- The airport is about 4km away from city center and long-distance bus station is about five kms north of the city center.
Getting oriented
The main bazaar is located at the south end of the Old Town, catering mostly to locals. Here are huge covered markets selling dried fruit, vegetables, spices and nuts and stall and tables selling tools, clothes and household items can be found. Beyond the main bazaar is a park and amusement park and the old cemetery.
Entertainment and Restaurants
Bukhara doesn’t have many cultural and nightlife opportunities other than the after hours scene at hotel restaurants, local drama, folk music, folk dance and performances staged for tourists at some of the major tourist sights and hotels. Restaurants are concentrated around the Labi-hauz. Some hotel restaurants turn into bars with music in the night. You can even find Chinese, German, Italian, Middle Eastern, American and Russian food.
Shopping in Bukhara
The old town is filled with small shops selling silk scarves, decorated daggers and swords, embroidered skull caps, velvet robes with gold thread designs, hand-dyed and hand printed silks, wooly Turkmen hats, wall hangings et all. However, the ‘famous’ Bukhara carpets are made in Turkmenistan! The spice shops in Bukhara are worth a visit – this is your best chance at buying dried apricots, apples, honey and Chinese goods and Russian vodka.
