Altyn-Emel National Park in Kazakhstan is a UNESCO World Heritage spanning roughly 4,600 square kilometers and is the country’s largest reserve. Its vast, arid landscape is made up of desert and rocky terrain. The closest village (or town) is Basshi with a few guesthouses.
Most multi-day tours, like ours, stay the night here. Please note that permits for the National Park are best obtained on-site in Basshi.
However, it is possible to leave Almaty early and do this as a day trip, although you might feel a little rushed, especially if you want to spend time on the Dunes or at the Aktau Mountains. Despite its proximity to Almaty, it is unfortunate that Altyn-Emel remains largely untouched by tourism for various reasons – for one, it is rather inaccessible and nearly impossible to explore the park on your own.
There are no paved roads, no public transportation, and only few scattered and very basic villages, so a tour is the best way to undertake this trip.
Navigating Altyn Emel National Park
Kazakhstan might not top the list as a safari destination, however as empty as it may seem, AENP teems with life and is a popular birdwatching destination. The Park has over 200 species of birds and bigger animals like gazelles, lynx, camels, bears and przewalski horses – although you might need some extra good luck to see them (or photograph them).
Alongside wildlife, history abounds in AENP – such as ancient petroglyphs, stone steels and burial mounds which are proof that Saka tribes and Scythian warriors lived here already during the early iron age.
Must do activities in Altyn Emel
The Singing Dunes (Route 1)
The famous Singing Dunes is located about 45km from Basshi village, accessible largely on dirt road through dry and undulating landscape. The dunes rise from the dry plains to a staggering 120m in height and stretches to over 1.5 kms in length. Shaped like a crescent, the dunes produce a deep, resonant hum when the wind blows, which gives it the same. The exact reason for this is a mystery but scientists believe it may be due to static electricity generated by friction in the hot, dry sand, which then produces a low-frequency vibration.
When we arrived, there were no tourists, and we began our long climb up the dune. With every step up, we slid down two steps – but it was fun to dig deep into the sand and crawl our way up. The winds were fierce, scattering sand everywhere (so we tried to keep our phones safe in our pockets) as we inched up. The views of Ili River winding its way was stunning and the sight of the vast desert was ethereal. (The sand can get really hot in summer, so choose a cooler month for this)
Walking along the ridge feels like an adventure – there is every chance you may fall – however, there is nothing to worry as the sand will help you slide down without injury. The experience is something else – sitting atop a giant sand dune in the middle of Kazakhstan is what makes for great travel photos.
Oshaktas Stone Steles
The first worthwhile stop on this route are the Oshaktas Stone steles. To this day it is not clear what these stone structures were for, but they are probably related to the Scythian burial mounds a few kilometers away.
Chokhan spring
After the Oshaktas stone steles you will pass by the small Chokan spring. This muddy water spring is named in honour of Chokhan Valikhanov. A famous Kazakh historian considered the father of Kazakh ethnography.
Aktau Mountains (Route 2)
We continued to the Aktau Mountains – stunning chalk formations made up of sedimentary layers, sculpted by time and erosion and painted in shades of yellow, red, pink and green. We walked through the partially dry riverbed and climbed the hills.
These mountains are said to be about 400 million years old. It is impossible not to be mesmerized by the unusual colours and whimsical formations. They are like an open-air museum and one of the world’s largest paleontological deposits.
On our return, we were lucky to spot a flock of camels – an uncommon sight in the park, according to our guide. We pulled over and quietly approached them on foot. Surprisingly, they barely noticed us.
Kosbastau
Before heading to the mountains, you can make a stop at Kosbastau. This oasis camping spot has a hot water spring with radon, believed to have healing powers and a 700-year-old willow tree. It’s a peaceful spot to camp.
Sholak mountains & Besshatyr Burial mounds (Route 3)
To get to this route, you need to get to the village of Shengeldy. There is no park office here and only a simple check point. Make sure you have arranged your permits beforehand in Almaty.
The landscapes are not as spectacular as around the singing sand dunes or the Aktau Mountain ranges, but there is a lot of history on this route.
Terekty Petroglyphs
From the main road you can take the turnoff towards the Sholak mountains and enter the Terekty canyon. Here you will see that the dark rocks have ancient petroglyphs on them including human figures and ibex with horns.
Things to do in Altyn Emel National Park
- Hiking in Altyn Emel
There are no established trekking trails here, but the best places are hiking the Aktau Mountains and Singing Sand Dunes
- Wildlife watching
AENP is one of the best places in Kazakhstan to see wildlife, some extremely rare and endangered (including Kulan, goitered gazelle, przewalski horse and Bukhara deer). Wildlife sighting requires luck though – I did see a lot of birds, lizards, snakes, few gazelles and a flock of camels.Take binoculars, as most sightings will be from a distance.
- Bird watching
There are over 200 species of birds in AENP making it the perfect spot for birdwatching. Birds of prey include eagles, buzzards and falcons. There are also storks, sparrows and larks as well as various songbirds, waterfowl, and migratory species.
Altyn Emel National Park Travel tips
Entrance and prices
A trip to Altyn Emel is divided into two: the main itinerary to be approached from Basshi (Routes 1, 2) and a separate itinerary to be approached from the west (directly from Almaty).
Basshi Village has the park’s headquarters, and it is the gateway to Aktau, Katutau and the Singing Sand Dune. Entry permits can be purchased at the visitor’s office in Basshi.
For Route 3, the national park is best approached directly from Almaty; you will need to make payments in advance by visiting the offices at Bogenbai Batyr 132, corner with Panfilov street, Office N305 in Almaty. Office contact number – 8 705 610 25 11.
Entry fee is 800 – 1050 KZT per person/day. Fee for vehicles is 200-300 KZT per car/day.
Where to sleep in Altyn Emel National Park
There are a few guesthouses in Altyn Emel national park with basic rooms and breakfast at extra cost. Breakfast is usually a fried egg, a sliced tomato and cucumber, some egg and sausage, tea and bread.
Altyn Emel hotel: The nearest accommodation from the park is in Basshi village and the only hotel is related to the park headquarters. It has reasonably priced rooms and breakfast and dinner is served in restaurant on the opposite side of the road.
Homestays: there are several homestays in Basshi – and your tour operator usually knows where to go. If you are on your own, ask around. Keep in mind that the facilities are simple, but this allows for a deeper experience with the locals. The food is homemade and delicious.
Camping: If you have your own camping gear it is possible to set up your tent at the Mynbulak rangers farm near the singing sand dunes (on Route 1) or the Kosbastau Oasis (on route 2). Make sure to bring enough water, food, snacks and warm clothing.
The designated camping spots are –
- Shygan, near Basshi
- Mynbulak (near the Singing sand dune
- Kosbastau, or the 700-year-old willow tree
- Aktau mountains, near the rest area: no water here
Where to eat in Altyn Emel National Park
There is little to no choice of restaurants in Basshi village. Your guesthouse is the best (and only) option for food. are not a lot of choices in Basshi village if it comes to food. It’s not a bad idea to bring some snacks with you for lunch when you are in the park. There is a small grocery store in Basshi with a limited selection.
When to visit
Winters are icy cold and hard and summer are extremely hot – so that leaves you spring and autumn months to visit this park.
Spring (April to June): Spring is a good time to visit when temperatures are relatively mild, and the landscape is greener after the winter months. This is a great time for birdwatching as migratory birds return to the area. The wildflowers also bloom during this season
Autumn (September to October): Autumn is another good time to visit. The landscape may start to turn golden as the grasses and vegetation begin to dry out, making it a good time for wildlife viewing.
Shoulder season like end of February or early March is also a good time if you come well prepared.
Safety in Altyn Emel
Altyn Emel National Park is safe to visit, but it is good to keep in mind that you will visit a remote area. Outside of Basshi village there are few facilities. If you plan to do some hiking, I recommend bringing enough water, snacks and a mini first aid kit.
In summer it can get very hot in Altyn Emel National Park. To avoid heat stroke, cover your head and drink plenty of water. There is little shade so it’s easy to get a sunburn even in spring or autumn.
Heavy rains increase the risk of mudflows in the Aktau mountains leading to slippery trails.
Watch out for poisonous snakes and scorpions.
What to bring
- Sturdy shoes or hiking shoes for the rocky trails.
- Hat and sunscreen for the harsh sun. There is no shade anywhere.
- Warm clothing if you happen to visit in the off-season or colder months like February or March.
- Money, as there are no ATM’s in or near Altyn Emel National Park.
- Water and snacks: There are no general stores outside of Basshi and no water sources in the park.
- Toilet paper: Very few to absolutely NO toilets in the park. The existing ones are rustic, hole in the ground type without any toilet paper.
Altyn Emel Tours
If you don’t have your own transport, there are several companies offering tours to Altyn Emel National Park. Unfortunately, tours aren’t cheap and include the Singing Sand Dunes (the first route). Additional charges apply if you want to visit Aktau Mountains or if you want an English speaking guide or a private car with driver.
However, if you don’t mind sharing the trip with others – or a Russian/Kazakh speaking guide, you can find affordable tours. Several hostels and local agencies run affordable community tours to the singing sand dunes in Altyn Emel National Park.
Renting a car
Renting a car would be a great option, especially if you want to explore Route 1 and 2 (most tour companies offer only one of the two) but please check if you are allowed to drive your rented car out of Almaty.
A 4 by 4 is not necessary, but you do need a car with high clearance.
Please note that there is no public transport to Altyn Emel National Park. Hitchhiking might prove impossible on this route too and even if you made it to Basshi, getting to Park is impossible without your own transport.
