To imagine Kazakhstan having a varied landscape that includes sunken forests, lakes and pine trees is hard but that is the beauty of this country. It defies imagination. Despite being the 9th largest country in the world, it is very less populated, large areas of the country is arid and dry – but a huge part of it is covered by high mountains, steppes grasslands, canyons and lakes.
The sight of grazing horses (here horses easily outnumber humans) especially as you head towards the Southeast is soothing, especially after long stretches of dry arid land of the western side.
Getting back to the lakes – the two of the most beautiful lakes in the country include Lake Kolsai (or Kolsay) and Lake Kaindy.
These lakes are part of the ‘Golden Triangle’, that include natural attractions in Southeast Kazakhstan, such as Charyn Canyon, Altyn Emel National Park and the lakes.
In this post, I will focus on the Kolsai Lakes and Lake Kaindy, although I highly recommend doing a longer tour to cover the other attractions as well.
An introduction to the Kolsai Lakes and Lake Kaindy
The Kolsai Lakes National Park includes three lakes, nestled among the hills of the Northern Tien Shan Mountains about 300km east of Almaty.
They are also called The Pearl of the Northern Tien Shan. It is easy to see why. The clear lakes reflect the surrounding snow-capped mountains a clear day, making it appear magical.
About 35 kilometers away from here is Lake Kaindy, which is an underwater forest sitting at an altitude of 2000m. It is a rather ‘young lake’ formed in 1911 after an earthquake triggered a landslide, which formed a natural dam in the gorge that was covered by spruce trees.
Water flooded the basin, submerging the forest. Today, you can see the dried trunks of spruce trees rising out of the water. Due to the cold temperatures, the trees were naturally frozen and well preserved in the water.
Strangely enough, this uncommonly beautiful lake is still quite unknown. To get here, a 4×4 is advised because the roads are rather bumpy and often partially flooded.
From the lake’s edge, I headed up for a better look at the lake. The late winter snow hung on the tracks making the uphill climb slippery and fun but the view from the top was rewarding. Although it was overcast and grey, it was eerily beautiful.
Where to stay at the Kolsai Lakes and Lake Kaindy
There are a few accommodation options near the Kolsai lakes. Saty, the closest village has a few guesthouses, or you can stay at the yurt camp for 7000 tenge per person (breakfast included). In my opinion, guesthouses are a better option because it includes food and accommodation. Saty is not a very big town and dining options are rather limited.
Best time to visit Kolsai Lakes and Kaindy Lake
The lakes are gaining in popularity which means a greater number of visitors are making a beeline for this stunning lake. During summer (June to September) especially, this place is extremely crowded – so might have to be there early to book your horse and using the toilets can be a challenge.
If you intend to camp by the lake, summer is the best time. But shoulder seasons are great too – there is still some snow (camping is not an option during this time), the lake is partially frozen, but it makes for a stunning backdrop for your Instagram and there is lot less traffic coming in.
If you want to enjoy the tranquility of the lakes but not freeze your ass off, it’s better to visit the Kolsai Lakes and Lake Kaindy in late May or late September.
How to visit the Kolsai Lakes and Lake Kaindy
It takes about 6 hours to reach the Kolsai Lakes and Lake Kaindy from Almaty if you are driving or on a tour package – which really is the best option.
Public transport is a hit and miss at best – there is a bust to Saty from Almaty (from Savakhat bus station, but there is no clear time for the bus to leave. However, if you do manage to catch the bus, there is a 15 kms walk from Saty to the entrance gate to the Lake. Hitchhiking is an option but unless you have too much time spare, it doesn’t end well.
A slightly better option to the bus is a shared taxi from Savakhat bus station in Almaty going to Kegen, a village near Saty. You can ask the driver to stop at Saty. The taxi will cost you about USD 10.
Cost of visiting the Kolsai Lakes National Park
Kolsai Lakes and Lake Kaindy operate independently, so you’ll end up paying at both the places. At the entrance to the lake, you’ll be asked for your passport and documents (on a tour package, your driver/guide will take care of this). The entrance fee without camping is 806 tenge per person and 100 tenge per car. If you are camping, it is 350 tenge extra. The prices might change depending on the season). Keep the receipt with you as you’ll have to show it upon exiting. This is absolutely important.
