The Isle of Skye is one of the most popular destinations in Scotland. Famous for its jaw-dropping landscapes, legends, and out-worldly natural landmarks, it was my most favourite and memorable trip in Scotland. The island is brimming with nature (and sheep) and intriguing cultural heritage. High mountains, volcanic rock formations, dramatic coastlines, castles, lochs and waterfalls add to its charm.
We left Inverness and drove towards Isle of Skye along A82, via a singularly stunning three hour drive, including a stop at the Loch Ness Centre and the stunning Eilean Donan Castle.
It was a clear day and I thought that was the best thing to happen that day…
…Until we came to a gas station just before The Skye Bridge which connects the mainland of Scotland at Kyle of Lochalsh to the Isle of Skye – here, everything changed.
In the gas station tea shop named Mumbai Thistle, we found our sustenance – ginger tea. We got talking, naturally so – and it turned out that the owner hailed from Wayanad (my hometown) and his female assistant from Kottayam.
Serendipity indeed.
When the beginning is sweet, what follows is generally sweeter. By the time we crossed the bridge, the sea had turned choppy, and clouds threatened to open – not unexpected in these parts because in Scotland, it would be a surprise if the sun popped out. But we had a flask full of tea just for instances like these.
May just as well mention here that Isle of Skye and its dramatic rock formations and medieval castles makes it feel ancient and epic.
We took our time getting to Portree, stopping first at Broadford for the night simply because it took our fancy.
The hotel restaurant closes early and often you have to reserve your “table” in advance. So we popped down to the supermarket for some bread and milk and stuff and instant noodles and soup and made a meal of it in the hotel.
Portree – the colourful capital
The next morning, we drove to Portree, the small, picturesque capital of Skye, with brick buildings set around a well-kept town square and clustered colourfully around a sheltered harbour. A lovely sight indeed.
From here, getting to the Fairy Pools (near Glenbrittle) was easy – thirty minutes’ drive brought us to a parking lot (get here early as the parking lot is small and fills up easily), from where a twenty-five walk brought us to the pools. The natural rock formations have created crystal-clear pools fed by crashing waterfalls from Mount Cuillin. It is great for swimming although I didn’t try – thanks to the rain showers. Also, the place was flooded and trying to walk into the pools was not safe. Despite this, the pools with the backdrop of the mountains looked as if the world ended there.
Please note: There are midges (tiny biting insects) on the Isle of Skye which can be a nuisance in summer, especially from late May to early September. Midges are generally not dangerous, although their bites can be irritating and cause itching, redness, and sometimes swelling.
From the pools, it was a rather long drive to the Neist Point – but since it was something we wanted to see, we braved the weather and headed out.
Neist Point
Interestingly, the roads are very narrow, but motorists are polite and respect the signboard that says, ‘Passing Place’ and promptly stop for the cars to pass. The sheep however follow no rules – so driving on these narrow, rough mountainous roads requires patience and caution.
The mountain roads weave among grassy slopes and rocky ridges.
But the island is sparsely populated — and seems to have more sheep than locals — and it’s apparently been that way since the Highland Clearances back in the 1800s!
On the most westerly tip of Skye, Neist Point Lighthouse commands the most incredible view of the ocean below. If you can make it here for sunset, you might just leave believing in magic.
It’s one of the most famous lighthouses in Scotland and for good reason. There’s a bit of a walk involved to get from the car park out to the lighthouse, so allow yourself some time (about 45-50 minutes). Once at the tip, keep an eye out for local wildlife, including whales, porpoises, and seabirds.
If you don’t fancy doing the walk out, you can simply sit and enjoy the unending views of the sea and sky.
We stayed the night at Portree, enjoying a late evening walk and delicious meals. It would be safe to say that Portree has the ‘freshest fish’ on the island. Everything tasted better here! There is even a small thrift store here where I found an antique watch. Yeah, I love antiques and the one in Portree was a rare find.
Of fairies and whiskey
The next morning, we drove to the Fairy Glen, but unfortunately the morning was overcast – however but it was great to see the spot where a scene from the movie Stardust was filmed. Utterly magical – the hill with the basalt topping looks like a castle from a distance and has even been nicknamed Castle Ewan. It is possible to climb this hill on a good day – or if you are very adventurous.
It is hard not to be swept up in mysticism on the island. Everything looked like there was some mystery attached to it. For a more spirited approach to this island, visit the distilleries – especially the Talisker Distillery, the oldest whiskey distillery on the isle of Skye. The nature is fantastic, but sometimes you need something to brace yourself for the weather too, right? Enter: Scottish Whisky. Here, you will understand why the whiskey of Scotland is sought after. It’s all about the water!
Next came the Old Man of Storr – now, this is what I call a photographer’s dream. This amazing spot is not far from Portree and juts out of the earth at 160-feet-high and is one of the most photographed spots in Skye – plus the source of many myths. The most popular one being that of a giant wandering the island, minding his own business, who just fell and died. The earth covered him, and the big pointy bits of rock are said to be his fingers…
There are many reasons to remember Isle of Skye forever – for me it was marveling at the incredible scenery, lochs, mountains, hills and coastline. Views that changed every time we turned a corner. I still hear the water as it ebbs and flows, I can listen to the birds and feel the changes in the weather (and let’s be honest that could be every hour), get otters playing on the shore and winds that can sweep you off your feet – and that ginger tea from my Mallu-man.
Old Man of Storr hiking info
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Total walk time: 1.5 – 2.5 hours depending on how far you go and how often you stop for photos, but mostly on how fit you are.
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Difficulty: The trail is steep at first but the track is well-maintained and easy to follow. On a clear day, you’ll get panoramic views over Loch Leather and the gorgeous surrounding landscape.
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Car parking: There is a paid car park and National Trust shop by the starting point – whilst spaces do fill up really quickly, the hike is relatively short so the cars are always coming and going.
What Isle of Skye has going for it –
Isle of Skye is an outdoor paradise, a hillwalkers haven with plenty of options for varying ability levels. The Quiraing epitomizes landscape beauty. The crumbling Old Man of Storr is one of Scotland’s most iconic images. The Cuillin Hills are as dramatic a range of peaks can get. To sum it up, the island has –
- Rugged terrain
- Stunning landscape
- Wild and raw
- Ancient and full of legends
Useful Information
Transportation
There are several ways you can reach Isle of Skye – By train from Inverness, although there is no rail network on the Isle itself, you can arrive at Kyle of Lochalsh (just before the bridge). Second option is by bus (Citylink) to Portree. And lastly, the best and the most independent way to arriving here is to drive.
Weather
The weather is unpredictable, which means you could go from wearing sneakers to rain boots in three minutes. And because it is a hiker’s paradise, it is a good idea to arm yourself with hiking boots and a change of clothes.
Remember
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Limited phone signal – don’t rely too heavily on your phone signal because coverage can be patchy or non-existent in remote areas. You should always download offline maps for both driving and walking.
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Advance booking – Portree has some amazing places to eat and stay but they book up fast in peak season. If there’s somewhere you really want to try, it’s best to reserve ahead of time.
Other attractions –
Dinosaur print – The 3 toed footprint is visible at Staffin Beach in low tide.
Wildlife Boat trip – Go out to sea to spot Sea Eagles.
Dunvegan Castle – For over 800 years it remains home to the Clan MacLeod.
Coral Beach – Not made of coral, but it has white sand and turquoise waters.
Did you know?
- Isle of Skye is a magical place and means ‘Cloud Island’ in Old Norse. the Vikings ruled Skye from 700AD to 1263.
- Portree (meaning ‘Kings Port’) is a popular base for visitors to Skye, so there’s lots of B&Bs, restaurants and freshest fish ‘n’ chips shop.
- There is a thrift store too – in case you need something for cheap. A petrol station and a Co-op supermarket adds to the convenience.
- If you want a boat cruise, then there are some that leave from Portree.
About Portree
The main town on Isle of Skye isn’t just any old town – it’s the default capital of Skye – a pretty sight with colourful townhouses and a lively harbour. If you’re looking for a place to have lunch or dinner, Portree offers plenty. The town of just over 2,300 people and is used mainly for stay or food.
The colourful harbour, fringed by high cliffs, is a beautiful sight, and the view from the Apothecary’s Tower is not to be missed. Walk along the black sand beach or simply look for a bargain at the thrift store along the harbour – I loved this place.
