Lisbon, Portugal’s capital city is magical. It has everything you’d want in a big city – and has everything you expect from an old country rich with heritage. Plus, it is a city not afraid of colours. You will see infinite shades of yellow, pink, blue and peach everywhere and that is what makes it different from the rest of Europe. And it’s also a city that celebrates patterns – there is pattern everywhere, on sidewalks, buildings and Squares. That is how different it is.
It is the place of beautiful architecture, beaches and amazing food and if you love cobblestone streets, historic neighborhoods, and old, beautiful European cities – this is the place for you.
This is also from where Vasco da Gama set off around the world.
A new chapter
To me, Lisbon was like opening a new chapter of my life. I had no idea just how much my perception of travel would change and the number of experiences I was opening myself to. And how much Lisbon would sink into my soul and infuse it with a unique energy.
Lisbon was an easygoing, walkable and warm coastal city with the most magical light and great food. Walking through its alleys I often felt as though I was going back in time and that is what I truly appreciate about this city.
I decided to go with a walking tour to get the best of the city in a short time. The walking tour began in Barrio Alto, the hub of Lisbon nightlife, and Fado music. Fado is Portuguese folk music, famous for its mournful ballads on subjects such as sea voyages, sailors and lost loves. The singing is accompanied by string instruments, most notably the Portuguese violin.
The tour then proceeded to the Santa Domingos Church in the centre of the city. This Catholic Church dates to the 13th century with a rather unsavoury history (it was the site of Catholic inquisition and Lisbon massacre of New Christians). The church was damaged by several earthquakes over the centuries and a fire in 1959, signs of which can still be seen today inside the church.
We spent rest of the morning exploring more of Lisbon, including taking a closer look at the Santa Justa elevator. It was built in 1900 to facilitate movement between the steep hills of Baxi district to the upper Carmo Square. It is one of the city’s public transport systems and a popular tourist attraction – with an observation deck at the top and the most incredible views of the city.
Belem Tower and Jeronimos Monastery
The next morning, I set out for Belem district on the tram – a longish ride (take the metro if you are short on time). It takes about 20 – 30 minutes by tram from the city centre, longer with traffic snarls. It was from Belém that the explorer Vasco da Gama set sail in 1497 to a pioneering sea voyage to India, rounding the Cape of Good Hope and reaching Calicut in 1498.
The first stop was the UNESCO-listed Jerónimos Monastery. This monastery complex dates to the early 16th century and is one of the most visited attractions in Lisbon. It houses the tombs of the Portuguese Royal family and the tomb Vasco de Gama in the front of the church. The Lisbon maritime Museum takes up one wing of the complex.
Portugal has a remarkable history of maritime exploration since the Middle Ages and it was the first European nation to navigate to the East and establish trade links, before being usurped by the Dutch and the British. The monastery was financed almost entirely out of what was called `spice money` – which was the income from trading in spices.
From here, across the road connected by an underground passage is the the Padrão dos Descobrimentos, a monument built to celebrate Prince Henrique the Navigator, who funded many early Portuguese expeditions in the Middle Ages.
After this, I walk to the Belem Tower, one of the most iconic tourist sites in Lisbon, on the banks of River Tagus. It was built as a guard tower to protect the city from enemies approaching via the way of the water. What was most exciting was that it was here that on 8 July 1497 Vasco da Gama sailed from Lisbon with a fleet of four ships with a crew of 170 men from Lisbon commanding the Sao Gabriel. To be in the same place as the man who became the first European to arrive in India by sea was exhilarating, to say the least.
This called for a celebration – so I proceed to enjoy a famous Portuguese delicacy at the Pastéis de Belém – the first bakery to sell the Pastéis de nata, (custard tart) believed to have been created by the monks of Jeronimos Monastery. There is an interesting backstory to it – in the 18th century, the monks used a lot of egg-whites to starch their clothes, which left them with plenty of yolks which were used to create this tart. Soon, a businessman named Domingos Rafael Alves who owned a local sugar refinery bought the recipe for the custard tarts from the monks at the monastery. He opened Pastéis de Belém, which, to this day, is still run by his descendants.
From Red to Pink
I ended the day at the Lisbon’s Pink Street, the erstwhile Red Street, now the coolest part of the city. The story behind this street is interesting – once upon a time it was the ‘taboo’ area abounding in sailors, criminals, gambling dens and ladies of the night – but today it boasts of upmarket bars with bold decors and nightclubs swaying you to some retro music. The pavement between the terraces, bars and clubs is painted pink – hence the name. Just a 3-minute walk from Pink Street is the Time Out Market – a must visit for food lovers too. There is nothing left to show of its dodgy past. This place is located on the river and is connected to the main city by metro, trams and buses.
For book lovers
If you are a book lover, here is your chance to visit the oldest bookshop in the world. Lisbon is home to Livraria Bertrand, the oldest continuously operating bookshop in the world (declared by Guinness World Records in 2011). This bookstore was founded in 1732 and contains mostly Portuguese books – but there is a small selection of English books as well. When you buy a book here, if you like you can ask them to stamp the book indicating that it was bought at the oldest bookshop in the World.
Things you’ll notice in Lisbon
- The tiles (azulejos)! They’re just incredible.
- The hills. Be prepared! It’s called the City of Seven Hills because it is indeed a hilly place, but it results in so many beautiful and interesting views of the city.
- The light — it’s called the city of light for a reason. The houses are painted warm yellow, pink and peach, so when the sun reflects off of them, it results in this incredible glowing warmth.
Top 5 things to do here
- Ride the tram
- Go to Sintra
- Visit the tile museum
- Taking a good long wander, or many wanders, through the little streets and neighbourhoods.
- Enjoy Fado Music (traditional Portuguese music) at a live show.
Getting around
You can walk pretty much everywhere and it’s easy/affordable to get Ubers around the city. Avoid driving if possible – the city is busy and chaotic with extremely narrow lanes in places.
Tram 28 seems to be the popular choice of transportation throughout the city. A stop on this route brings you to the Alfama District, where tiled chapels, grandiose cathedrals, and remnants of old city walls bring you back centuries.
Where to eat
Lisbon is quickly becoming a culinary destination with more and more restaurants popping up! In fact, there are various Indian restaurants (and quite popular too) alongside local restaurants dishing up authentic food.
One of the best streets in central Lisbon to find a number of good, cheap Portuguese restaurants is the Rua dos Correeiros. (Don’t miss the black paella – pictured above) when you are here.
