Trabzon is more than just a city on the Black Sea Coast

When boarding the Pegasus flight to Trabzon from Istanbul’s Sabiha Gokchen Airport and later, digging into the 8 Lira inflight snack of spongy cake and sipping coffee, I had no clue what I was going to find at the end of the short flight.

When I landed, I had found my heaven.

Trabzon is called City of Sultans

All I knew about Trabzon was its 2000- yr-old Sumela Monastery and that it was the home of my couchsurfing host Ibrahim, who welcomed me warm heartedly to the City of Sultans. Seeing my bewilderment, he explained.  Trabzon was the birthplace of Ottoman ruler Suleiman the Magnificent.

Ibrahim then added the third and the fourth reason for Trabzon’s fame – its football team and how it became the centre of “suitcase tourism” when people from neighbouring Georgia flooded into town to buy goods that was far cheaper here back in 1970s and 80s.

Soon enough, I began to feel the place – with my nose, eyes, one my skin and in my heart. I smelt the sea, the freshness of the breeze and warmed up to the gentle sun rays. When Ibrahim handed me a key to his flat, I made Trabzon my home.

For the locals, English is not a favoured language of communication and that was really what made endeared Trabzon to me because it made Trabzon an original. The lack of a common language did not impede my exploration or curiosity because not for a moment was I treated as an outsider! Everyone including the kebap man to restaurant staff, shop owners and passers by went out of their way to welcome a Hindustani musafir (me) with a smile or an invitation to tea.

Back to Trabzon –

Top attractions

Trabzon’s life centers around the City Center area (Meydan). This is where all roads lead to. All the hotels (including the famous Hotel Nur) is located here. This is the shopping, eating and socializing area – and this is where I started exploring.

It is said that it is at Meydan that you start and end your exploration of Trabzon.

Hagia Sophia

A magnificent Byzantine church, probably the most significant place to see in the city of Trabzon. This 13th-century Byzantine church, known as the Church of Divine Wisdom sits at the center of the city.  After the Ottoman conquest, its conversion into a mosque took place with a new name, Aya Sofia.

Ataturk Kosku (Ataturk House)

A villa built by a local Greek merchant in 1890, which now serves as a memory to the founder and the First president of the country – although it is said that Ataturk hardly ever lived here. Today it is a museum with lovely artefacts and a beautiful garden and corners with wonderful views.

Trabzon Castle

The city’s castle which is now mostly in ruins and is a part of the military base.

Sumela Monastery

Similarly, Trabzon is also home to the Sumela Monastery that nests on the cliff of Melá Mountain (Black Mountain). The monastery symbolizes the dedication to the Virgin Mary. The name is translated as The all Holy One in Greek; a title generally used for Mother of Christ. The Sumela Monastery is one of the most important historic and touristic sites in Trabzon.

Trabzon Museum

A museum housing an impressive collection from the Byzantine period.

Trabzon’s Bazaar District

The city’s famous market area offering a wide range of shopping options.

Boztepe

A small hill that also goes by the name of Mount Minthrion near Trabzon is a delightful spot to spend the day! The views from here are spectacular and the hill itself is dotted with lovely cafes while one quarter of the hill is occupied with the Kaymaklı Quarter. This hill is of religious importance  – on site is a mosque that was once a church.

Food and Drink in Trabzon

Dining and drinking options far outnumber any other small city in the country – for one reason alone! The Black Sea.

Hamsi: Well, for a start the Black Sea is the source of Trabzon’s most desired and popular food – the hamsi (anchovy). In fact, the hamsi’s reputation is such that it no only finds itself made into pies but also into pudding – it is most certainly a versatile fish that transforms into many delectable foods. My personal preference? Hamsi fried (pic below) – just pick one up and pop it into your mouth. Crunchy and juicy and with a dash of lime, it is heavenly.

Muhlama (kuymak): A lot can be achieved from mixing corn meal, butter and cheese and Muhlama (or kuymak) is the right example. With its fondue-like texture, this dense and stretchy (and calorie-overloaded) dish is very popular along the Black Sea coast. Typically served with bread and a spoon (for all that rich unwieldy cheese).

Hazelnuts: Called Findik in Turkish – and you see them everywhere and just as well. It is said that almost 70-80% of the world’s hazelnuts are grown in Turkey, so chances are that you cant miss a hazelnut cart even if you tried. you find them as lattes, spreads, liqueur, syrup, butter, coffee cookies and everything in between.

Black cabbage soup: Not so much in Trabzon, but in Rize, a neighbouring town) black cabbage is a regional delicacy often cooked into soup or stuffed between vine leaves.

Trabzon bread

Few places in the world make bread as delicious as the Trabzon bread – nothing beats the aroma of freshly baked bread wafting from the bakeries lining the streets as you walk past.

Tea

…For everyone in Turkey loves tea. And Trabzon cant be far behind, can it? Along with its neighbour Rize, Trabzon is called the Tea Capital of Turkey. And yes, it produces its own tea!

Nugget of info: Trabzon does financially well in terms of exports aboard of hazelnuts and tea. Ideal soil and climate conditions making growing these products easy, and along with neighbouring Rize, Trabzon is known as the tea capital of Turkey.

 

Fortune telling in a coffee cup

People are very friendly here and the city oozes “old world” which is quite charming! That being said, people here keep alive the tradition of reading your future in a coffee cup – something I thoroughly enjoyed doing. More than pretending to be Nostradamus, this is considered a nice pastime or socialization.

Reading your future in coffee cup is simple – once you’ve finished your coffee leaving the grounds in the cup, upend the cup on the saucer and turn it upside down. When the grounds cool off, it will be ready for coffee reading according to the shapes seen in the cup. Simple interpretation – dog (loyalty), upward line (travel), mountains (wishes come true) – generally everything positive!

Scams to watch out for in Turkey

This scam is not limited to this city alone (in fact it Trabzon this is hardly a scam) – but all of Turkey, particularly Istanbul. It works in a very simple way –

The scammer (the shoe-shiner) drops his equipment beside you “accidentally”. If you help pick it up, they will offer to provide shoe shine services to you for free. If you accept, he will converse with you while shining your shoes and casually mention add-on services he is providing. He may also tell you a sob story about his life and make you feel bad for him. Once the service is provided, a hefty payment is demanded.

I never needed a shine of course (and you can scam a woman in sneakers) – but it was really lovely to see the shoe-shiners lined up around the Meydan Square waiting for customers, mostly locals.

How to get there

Plane: Pegasus flies to Trabzon from major airports in Turkey.
Bus:From Istanbul, it takes about 18-20 hours.