Everything takes you by surprise here, beginning with the roads. The 136-kilometer long road connecting Chennai (Tamil Nadu) to Pondicherry is one India should be proud of. Secondly, the Alambarai Fort. For a visitor who does not know Tamil, the local language, reaching the ancient heritage site is an achievement in itself. But if you do reach Kadapakkam (about 45 km from Pondicherry on the Chennai road), after much gesticulating and coaxing the locals, you could just turn right and drive further about three kilometers, over really bad roads and gaping fisherfolk, you are transported back in time.
Literally.
The seas have never been so alluring or so blue and the skies so seductive. But what takes your breath away is the now ruined Fort. Its broken walls that have turned deep red with the passage of time stand testimony to the era that once was, adding beauty to the quiet of the place. Crystal clear white sand stretches for miles and just for a moment you glimpse the Emperor looking down lovingly upon his kingdom from the tall towers. For just a moment. The blue seas then reach up to your feet and you awaken from your momentary slumber. The image of the Emperor fades away and you see the square shaped brick fort with its partly destroyed towers that were once the pride of the place, now merely watch over the blue waters that reach up to kiss its walls.
Alambarai Fort, built towards the beginning of the 17th century (1735) by the Mughals, was ruled by Nawab Doste Ali Khan and later gifted to the French for services rendered to the rulers. Spread over 15 acres, this also served as a sea port for the ancient Tamil Nadu where much trading activity took place. This was the only port on the East Coast of India (also called the Coramandel Coast), back then. When the French was defeated by the British, the Fort was captured and partly destroyed in 1760. Now maintained by the State Department of Archeology, this mysterious yet enchanting ancient heritage site, faces the ravages of nature. Built on the sea that is rapidly eating away at its foundation, it is a matter of time before it comes crashing down.
When you have briefly glimpsed history allow yoursef to be caressed by the warm salty breeze. stand on the old towers with your arms extended and you’ll be surprised how much of the universe you can hug in just that gesture. there is something about the place that makes you want to step back in time, even for a tiny moment.
That is just the way I felt when the sun went down and drowned the fort in a golden red light, like the flashing of a million diamonds. It was a place that I could never forget. It would always play on my mind.